Golf Lessons with Jeff

Building a repeatable golf swing

2010-06-21T10:23:00.000-07:00

It would be nice if we could have the same golf swing every time; right down the middle of the fairway with perfectly judged distance. This would be a little like having Christmas every day though, and some of the fun aspects of golf's unpredictability would be taken away (although the whole 'winning lots of money at tournaments' thing might never get old). Although we must accept the fact that no two golf swings will ever be exactly the same, there are ways to make the golf swing more 'repeatable' so that one can play with more accuracy and consistency.

It's important to start with the small stuff. In other words, if you're having problems getting the middle of the putter's face on the ball, there is very little chance that you're making good contact on a full swing with a driver. This is one of the reasons that a beginning golfer should start by learning the putting stroke and learn how to hit the ball on the sweet spot of the clubface with some regularity before moving on.

After a beginning golfer has become acclimated with the putting stroke and feels comfortable with ball contact, they should move on to the chip shot (shots just off the green), assuring that they 'brush the clubhead through the grass at the same place every time'. If the clubhead does not 'brush' the grass somewhat aggressively, the ball cannot get up in the air (thin shots that shoot over the green will be the likely outcome). Practice by sticking two tees in the ground and brush the grass between the tees with the clubhead (with no ball present), mimicking a chip shot. Remember to keep the eyes on the target spot until after the stroke has been completed (think 'process, not result').

Next comes the pitch shot (shots between a chip shot and a full swing). Again, the golfer must brush the grass when making this swing, ideally taking a small divot out of the turf (remember that the divot should always come just after ball contact, assuring that a descending blow on the ball has been achieved). At the point of the backswing where the shaft of the club is parallel to the ground and the hands are by the hip, the shaft should also be parallel (right in between) to the target line and the foot line. The toe of the club should point directly up in the air so that the leading edge of the clubface is on a ninety degree angle to the ground. At the point of the follow through where the shaft of the club is parallel to the ground, the same holds true (shaft parallel to the target line and the foot line with the toe of the club pointing directly up in the air. Getting good at pitch shots builds an incredibly good foundation for the full swing.

Finally, the full swing. Fortunately, the pitch shot is just a short version of the full swing, so if a golfer is getting the club in the proper positions on a pitch shot, they are (almost) halfway home, because the toe-up/ toe-up positions remain true on the full swing. So, after the club is brought back to the parallel to the ground 'toe-up' position, the club should continue back so that the butt end of the grip is pointed along the target line behind the ball. The club need not travel much further back than this. However, if the club does continue back so that it is again parallel to the ground at the top of the backswing, then the club should again be parallel to the toe line and target line. If the club points towards the target line at this position it is called 'coming across the line'. If the club is pointing away from the target line at this position it is called 'having the club laid off'. The clubhead should contact the ball on a descending blow for every club except the driver (remember the more lofted the club, the bigger the divot should be). Again, the same positions hold true on the follow through, but at the finish the club is brought further up as the golfer turns towards the target.

It's a good idea to practice the full swing positions regularly. Standing on balance pods and holding each position for a few seconds will impart them into the muscle memory and improve proprioception (awareness of where body parts are at any given moment).

Remember that getting in the right positions means nothing if you aren't hitting the ball on or around the sweet-spot of the clubface, so good contact is always the priority. Get comfortable with making good contact on a small scale and consistent ball striking will be easier to accomplish for every shot.

How to score in the rain

2010-06-19T08:18:00.001-07:00

Don't let the nasty weather keep you inside on the couch. You can still have fun on the golf course on a rainy day, and even score well if you come prepared and know how to adjust your game to the conditions. Here are some ways to get a good golf score on a rainy day:

Gear up

Staying dry is obviously very important. Invest in some good rain gear and waterproof golf shoes, pack a couple extra gloves in your bag, an extra towel or two, and don't forget your umbrella.

Swing easy

Chances are, a little bit of moisture will get on the grips of your golf clubs on a rainy day. The harder you swing, the more likely the grip will slip in your hands, making it difficult to square up the clubface at contact and release the clubhead down the target line. Swing with a slower tempo and make every effort to maintain a consistent grip pressure throughout the swing.

Utilize the umbrella

When you arrive at your ball and take a club out of your bag, place the butt end of the umbrella inside your bag so that it protects the clubs from getting wet. Keeping the grips dry is job one in the rain.

Play the ball further back in your stance

Chances are, if it's rainy, it's also windy. You'll want to keep the ball on a low trajectory to lessen the wind's impact on the ball flight. The easiest way to do this is to play the ball a couple inches further back in your stance to de-loft the club a bit and keep it low in the air.

Aim right for the pin on approach shots

When the course is wet, you can aim right for the pin on approach shots and pitch shots (rather than having to judge 'roll to the hole' after the ball lands). This makes it possible to take dead aim with the confidence that the ball will not roll much (if at all) after it lands. Avoid playing any 'bump and run' type of shots toward the green as it will be too difficult to judge how soft the turf is.

Take a bigger putting stroke than usual

Wet greens will slow the putts down considerably. Get a feel for the speed of the greens on the practice hole before your round so that you are better prepared to judge your distance control. A ten foot putt on a rainy day could require a twenty foot stroke.

Avoid sand traps at all costs

Wet sand is extremely difficult to hit out of because it's very hard to judge how the ball will come out of the trap. A much bigger, faster swing is required in order to get the leading edge of the club down and through the wet sand. So, aim away from the traps, even if this means aiming well away from the pin on approach shots to guarantee you don't end up in the wet beach.

Take an extra club

The ball will not travel as far in wet conditions (especially if it's also cold out). Take an extra club or two in order to reach your intended landing spot. This will also lend to swinging easier and maintaining light grip pressure, as when we try to 'kill' the ball we grip too tight in an effort to will the ball further along.

Hit the ball first

It is absolutely imperative to contact the ball before the turf on rainy days. If any turf is hit before the ball, the speed of the swing will be slowed down drastically (the wetter the conditions, the more dramatically the club will be slowed down by the turf). Therefore, place the hands a little more ahead of the clubhead at address, play the ball a bit further back, and swing a bit steeper than usual.

Bring a towel to the green with you

When walking on to the green and preparing to putt, make sure and bring a small towel on to the green with you so that you can mark your ball and clean/ dry it before setting it back down. Chances are good that there will be mud or sand on the ball that needs to be cleaned off, if not just moisture. Give the putter face a swipe with the towel before putting, too.

Follow this advice for better scores on rainy days, and have fun out there!

Why take lessons?

2010-06-06T08:31:00.000-07:00

To a beginning golfer, the golf swing is a mysterious, unpredictable creature that rears its head often and attacks at will. Confusing, confounding, and consistently inconsistent. The negative feedback one experiences when starting this game dramatically and disproportionally outweighs the positive. Most people who effort to learn the game on their own completely abandon it after a couple of attempts on the course, due to shots that veer every direction, dribble ten yards forward off the tee, or, (worst case scenario) are completely 'whiffed'.

The golf swing is difficult to learn, because it is a complex action involving many moving body parts that must all work in perfect harmony in order to achieve a proper strike on the ball. It is easier to learn the swing as a child, because the club is heavier in their arms and they are forced to make the correct weight transfer. However, when taking up the game as an adult, it's important to take a series of lessons and learn the fundamentals of golf (grip, stance, alignment, ball position, posture, tee-height, swing physics, ball flight laws, etc.). The more one can become 'a student of the game', the more success they will experience and the earlier they will experience it.

Many students come to a lesson unsure of what they hope to achieve. They just want to 'get better'. It is important to have a goal and a purpose when taking a lesson (or a series of lessons). Even if the goal is as simple as: "to get good enough to feel comfortable playing nine holes with my spouse", having something to strive for will make one practice with purpose.

The student's role during a lesson:

Obviously, one should try to absorb as much information during a lesson as possible. It is important to ask a lot of questions, with the confidence that there are no 'stupid questions' when it comes to the learning process. Everyone has a different 'learning style'. A lesson that an instructor shares with one person might not make sense to another. Consequently, the teacher needs to hear from the student that what they are saying doesn't make sense and and to please explain it in a different way. Fortunately, there are many different methods used to teach the same thing, so a qualified instructor should have no problem custom tailoring the lesson to any student's needs.

An instructor will not care much about 'what the ball does when hit' during a lesson. They are more concerned with the student making the correct body motions and getting the club in the proper positions. The teacher may not even be looking at the ball because they are focused on what the body is doing. Therefore, the student need not be overly consumed with successfully striking the ball or getting it close to the target. This should free them up do just 'let things happen' rather than tensing up and worrying about poor performance. This free swinging, easy going attitude will set the stage for a conducive learning environment and allow the student to absorb more good information.

Taking notes is never a bad idea. If the student can approach the lesson like they would any other 'class' that they pay for and want to get the most out of, they are more likely to improve their game. So, what would one do during any other class besides a golf lesson? Probably take notes, ask questions, refer back to the notes, and, most importantly: DO THEIR HOMEWORK! Yes, this means practice. As is true when taking a class in college or any other forum, more time should be spent doing homework (practicing) than was actually spent in class. On average, a student should expect to practice about two hours for every half-hour lesson they take. The closer to the actual lesson that they can practice, the better, as the information will still be 'fresh'.

If a student does not practice what they learned during a lesson, they will get worse, not better. When one tragically spends money on a lesson only to get worse, they are not happy campers, and may take out their frustration on the instructor . They need to ask themselves who is really to blame though, because if they didn't practice after their lesson, their mind was so overwhelmed with swing thoughts during an actual round of golf that swinging with any freedom or confidence was probably next to impossible. The student must, MUST practice on their own in order to make the proper changes so that they become ingrained into the muscle memory and are 'automatic' when on the course. In other words, they don't have to 'think' much when playing because the swing changes have already happened during practice sessions.

Controlling distance on pitch shots

2010-05-29T07:59:00.000-07:00

Any shot that is too long to be a chip shot (which should be a low, running shot with minimal wrist action) and too short to be a full swing, is classified as a pitch shot. The pitch shot is a short version of the full swing; in other words, we are doing the same things we would do for a full swing, but on a smaller scale.

Most weekend golfers do not practice their pitch shots enough, and as a result they don't have a feel for distance when faced with this shot during a round. This uncertainty leads to poor shots that land well before or well after the pin (or green). Frustration may boil over into the next shot, then the next tee, and so on. It can be extremely defeating to hit a pure drive down the middle, leaving only a little pitch shot into the green, and proceed to hit a bad approach shot that doesn't land anywhere close to the intended target.

First of all, job one is always making sure the face of the club is contacting the ball first (before the clubhead hits the ground, and on the downswing), contacts the ball on the sweet spot of the club, and is kept on a good upright plane. If these things don't happen, then it really doesn't matter how big of a swing is taken because the golfer will have hit the ball fat, thin, off the toe, or off the heel.

Finding a point of reference

Providing the golfer is making good contact on the ball, they should then find a 'point of reference' to help judge distance on pitch shots. I suggest paying particular attention to how big of a backswing you take for a 50 yard pitch shot. Since most courses have 'fifty yard markers' this is a good distance to get used to when practicing. For me, a 50 yard shot requires about a three quarter swing with a 56 degree sand wedge. So, I know that when I'm 50 yards away from the green, I bring the club back enough so that the end of the grip 'points' at the ball, then I know it's time to bring the club back down.

Having this 'point of reference' for a 50 yard shot is good because I know that from 60 yards, my swing should be just a little longer with just a little more shoulder turn and leg action. If I have a 40 yard shot my swing should be a little less than three quarter and I bring my hands back to about waist level rather than up higher where the grip would point at the ball (along with a little less shoulder turn and lower body action).

So, find your own point of reference for a mid-range pitch shot from a particular yardage so that you have a 'go-to' shot from that distance. This will make it easier to know how big of a swing to take from any yardage as you'll know when to lay off or crank it up a bit.

How to cure the 'reverse-pivot'

2010-05-26T17:39:00.000-07:00

When a golfer has their body weight moving forward during their backswing and backwards during the downswing and follow through, they are using a 'reverse pivot' in an effort to get the ball in the air. This motion is the exact opposite of what they should be doing, which is loading up their body weight on the rear leg/ foot on the backswing, releasing it towards their front leg/ foot as the club comes down, then fully releasing on to the left side (for a right hander) at the finish. The result of the reverse pivot is generally poor contact, low trajectory, slices, pulls, and weak shots.

Usually, when a golfer does a reverse pivot rather than the proper weight shift, it means that they are trying to help, scoop, lift, or flip the ball up into the air, rather than trusting the loft of the club to do this. The longer a golfer has gone on doing this, the more difficult it is to correct. This is one of the reasons why it's so important to take a series of lessons or find a 'mentor' early on in the learning process. If a golfer comes to me for lessons and they have a reverse pivot, there is a process I go through to correct it.

Start with chip shots

If someone has a reverse pivot in their full swing, I can guarantee they do it when chipping and pitching too. When the reverse pivot golfer hits a chip shot, they have the ball too far forward in their stance, and they use excessive wrist motion (un-hinging the wrists) through contact. They will always finish the shot with their body weight on the rear foot. This type of swing rarely results in good contact because the clubhead will be ahead of the hands at contact (thin shots are most common, but fat shots can creep in too). Also, if the golfer happens to somehow achieve good contact, the ball will fly too high in the air and typically land well short of the hole.

The goal of a chip shot should be to hit the ball on a low, running trajectory that utilizes the roll on the green rather than flight in the air to get the ball close to the hole. In order to do this, the golfer must contact the ball with the hands ahead of the clubhead and the body weight on the lead side of the body. If someone is struggling with this they should hit some chip shots with their left foot planted on the ground and only the tip of the right shoe on the ground. When chipping balls with the body in this position, it is very difficult to have any body weight transfer to the right side of the body (which is the goal of the drill), and the golfer will get the feeling that they are leaning onto their left side a bit. This will result in shots that are hit more crisply, on a lower trajectory, and will also impart a feel for trusting the loft of the club and getting the body weight left.

Walk-through drill

The best drill I know of for curing the reverse pivot in the full swing is the walk-through drill. Simply set up a ball on a driving range mat, take a swing, and right after contact step forward with the rear foot (so that the rear foot passes the front foot and steps towards the target). This is effective because it forces the golfer to get their body weight over to the left side as they release the club. When they make good contact on the ball, they will see that the ball goes higher, flies straighter, and flies further. Gary Player, for years, did this move *on the golf course during rounds*, which speaks volumes about it's value as a drill. He would hit his shot, walk through with the right foot, and just keep on walking towards his next shot, casually flipping his club to his caddie. To the 'reverse pivot' student, this move will feel extremely awkward (because they are actually used to backing away from the target during the follow through) and they will likely experience a great amount of frustration just trying to get the right foot to come forward after contacting the ball. The harder this is for them to do, the greater their degree of reverse pivot. They should stick with it though, because having the body weight coming through the ball rather than away from it is crucial to hitting good shots.

Use analogies with other sports

When throwing a baseball, football, javelin, shot-put, horse-shoe, hitting a tennis ball, rolling a bowling ball, or even skipping a rock, the body weight always comes forward (to the front foot) when executing the follow through. This is always the most effective way of performing each action and will produce the most powerful, efficient result. The golf swing is no different. For some reason, when a new golfer tries to hit a golf ball, they have the urge to try and help the ball into the air rather than perform a natural, athletic motion that should be ingrained through experiences with other sports. They should learn to trust the loft of the club, hit down and through the ball, and finish on the lead side. The 'up on the right toe' drill for chip shots and the 'walk-through' drill for the full swing should help.

Watch more golf on TV and do what the pros do

2010-05-26T07:25:00.000-07:00

One of the best ways to improve at golf as a beginner is to watch as many tournaments on TV as possible and try to mimic what the professional golfers do. While most of us won't be able to hit the ball anything like they do, we can definitely get better by trying to incorporate some of their habits and routines into our own regimen. Here are some particular things the pros do during a round of golf that are good to duplicate:

> Approach every shot in golf from behind the ball

Many beginners and high handicappers approach the ball sideways, simply taking their stance and looking at the target before swinging away. This is a really bad way to aim. The pros will approach every shot (be it a putt, drive, chip, approach, bunker shot), from behind the ball - looking straight through to the target. They do this in an effort to determine what their target line is, usually picking distinguishable intermediate targets along that line (leaves, divots, off color blades of grass, etc.) to reinforce that line and make aim easier as they approach the ball. This is an absolute *must* when putting (and anytime else, really) because a break (slope) cannot be read as a golfer is addressing the ball.

> Don't hit driver off every tee

The pros know that accuracy trumps distance every time. You'll see them take a fairway wood or long iron to tee off on many holes. It may be fun to pull out the big dog and wail away at every chance, but it's not conducive to good scores. It's a matter of risk versus reward; if there is a high likelihood that a driver will put a ball in jeopardy of going out of bounds or in a hazard, a pro will always scale down to a safer club. Tiger Woods won the 2006 British Open and only used his driver once the entire tournament. Remember that the more loft a club has, the easier it is to hit because A) it is shorter (swinging on a smaller arc) and B) loft negates sidespin (so a driver will produce the most sidespin and the least backspin of any club).

> Try to swing the club like they do

There is a reason why a pro golfer will never swing with a reverse-pivot or flip their wrists on chip shots. Success is greatly limited when doing either of these things. While all pros have unique swings with different swing planes, tempo, etc., there are certain things that they all generally do the same. Some examples:

-They will finish all shots with their body weight more on the lead side (left side for a right hander) than the trailing side.

-They will keep their wrists firm (not un-hinging) through contact for all shots.

-They will make a full shoulder turn on a full swing, and control all other shots primarily with the turning of the shoulders rather than the arms and hands.

-They will keep the left arm extended on the back and downswings, and the right arm extended on the release.

-They will allow the clubhead to release down the target line without lifting up to look at the ball too early.

-They will keep their head almost perfectly still until the finish.

-They will keep their eyes down on the point of contact until well after contact has been made.

-They will have the right elbow brushing close to the body on the downswing.

-They will finish the swing with their belt-buckle facing the target.

-They will hit low, running chip shots whenever possible instead of high flop shots.

So, pick a favorite golfer that has swing you really admire (it's always been Fred Couples for me) and a swing tempo that looks close to yours. Try to watch them play tournaments at every chance, and incorporate as many of their good golf habits into your game as possible.

Putting a band-aid on common swing problems

2010-05-23T08:20:00.000-07:00

Using quick fixes in golf is a bit like using sandbags during a flood. They'll stop the problem for awhile, but eventually something more stable must be instilled. Sometimes though, if a golfer is having the same swing fault during a round (topping, slicing, etc.) they need to make an instant change in order to salvage their score. Here are some quick fixes for common problems on the course:

Slicing (ball curving to the right):

> Aim further left: This is the easiest fix because the golfer need not change their swing, however distance will still suffer and judging the amount of slice can be difficult. Also, setting up for a slice can make a ball slice more than the golfer intended.

> Take a stronger grip: Rotate the hands clockwise on the grip. The further clockwise they rotate, the more the clubhead will rotate through contact, closing the clubface and decreasing the likelihood of a slice. The danger in this one is that the duck-hook is often the result.

> Close the stance: Turn the entire body clockwise at set-up so that the right foot is further back than the left. This will encourage an 'inside the target line to outside the target line' swing path. Since most slicers have an 'over the top' move in their swing and tend to bring the club down on too steep of a plane, closing the stance will flatten it out.

Hooking (ball curving to the left):

> Aim further right: Again, easy fix because the golfer need not change their swing, but sometimes setting up to hit a draw can turn a shot into an ugly hook because too much side-spin is imparted on the ball.

> Take a weaker grip: Rotate the hands counter-clockwise on the grip so that the 'V's' are pointing more towards the chin than the right shoulder. The further they rotate this way, the less the clubhead will rotate through contact, preventing the face of the clubhead from closing and decreasing the likelihood of a hook. A golfer used to taking a strong grip may feel like they are losing control of the clubhead while doing this though, and they must be careful not to change their swing path lest a slice occur.

> Open the stance: Turn the entire body counter-clockwise at set-up so that the left foot is further back than the right and the body is more 'open' to the target. This will encourage an 'outside the target line to inside the target line' swing path (steeper back and down). A lot of folks who hook the ball excessively swing the club on too flat of a plane, and opening the stance will get the shaft on a steeper plane because it will be more difficult to bring the club behind the body.

Topping (hitting too high on the ball and not getting it up in the air)

> Keep the eyes down longer: Topping is often the result of lifting the eyes and body up too early, bringing the clubhead up out of the natural swing plane and contacting the ball too high. One should make sure the eyes stay down on the contact point until well after the ball is struck.

> Hit down on the ball: A golfer must make sure they contact the ball while the clubhead is still on the downswing (for all shots except putting and driving). If they don't, they are hitting it on the upswing, and the clubhead will have already bottomed out on its swing arc. The ball will not get air born when hit in this manner. Moving the ball back in the stance can help with this.

> Make a correct weight transfer: When the golfer tries to 'scoop, lift, or help' the ball in the air, they are falling victim to the 'reverse pivot' (body weight moving towards the front foot on the backswing and towards the back foot on the downswing and follow through, often resulting in the golfer backing away from the target after contact). This move discourages hitting down on the ball and encourages a topped shot. The body weight must come back on the backswing and forward on the downswing/ follow-through in order to achieve proper contact and trajectory. At the end of the swing, the right heel should be raised up, this will indicate body weight has moved to the left.

Chunking (hitting the ball fat/ club contacting turf before the ball)

> Choke down on the grip: This will bring the clubhead down so that it brushes the turf rather than chunks down into it (providing the golfer keeps the same posture). The unfortunate result of this can be topped shots though, so one might choke down just a little rather than excessively.

> Move the ball back in the stance: Will encourage getting the clubhead on to the ball before it contacts the turf. If the golfer keeps hitting fat shots, then their clubhead is contacting the turf before the ball. The ball should be moved back towards the rear foot because that will put the ball in a position that will match the golfers pattern.

> Don't 'dip': Often times those that hit fat shots dip their head down during the downswing, which brings the entire body down and the swing arc under where the clubhead was at address. Every effort should be made to keep the head as still as possible during the backswing and downswing in order to prevent the 'dip'.

These tips should temporarily put a band-aid on a golfer's on-course swing wounds, but after their round they should probably consider a series of lessons with a qualified instructor.

Do not keep your head down!

2010-05-20T08:06:00.000-07:00

All shots in golf require a shoulder turn. Putting and chipping call for a small shoulder turn with little to no other body movement (no breaking of the wrists, leg action, hip turn, or weight transfer). Pitch shots, punch shots, flop shots, and greenside bunker shots incorporate a bit of body movement in addition to the shoulder turn. When making a full swing, however, the shoulders should turn enough (ideally) so that the golfer's back faces the target at the top of the backswing and the left shoulder is directly under the chin (for a right handed golfer).

Many golfers are unable to make a full shoulder turn because they have been told to "keep their head down" when they swing. When someone hears this they almost always tilt their head forward so that their chin almost touches their chest. Then when they swing the club back, the chin restricts a full shoulder turn. At this point they are forced to do one of three things: lift their head up out of the way to allow for the shoulders to continue to rotate; slide their head laterally away from the target; or stop the shoulder turn short and complete the backswing by bending the left arm and attempting to control the swing with the arms and hands rather than the turning of the shoulders.

Instead of the disastrous, age-old "keep your head down" advice that many have been practicing, a golfer should keep their head up a bit more, but keep the *eyes* down. When the head is tilted up a bit at address, the golfer can easily allow for the left shoulder to turn under the chin as they swing the club back, without the head moving up, sliding backwards, or restricting the backswing.

Since the head must remain almost perfectly still during the backswing, downswing, and release, the chin must be raised a bit if the golfer hopes to make the appropriate shoulder turn. The head should stay still as the left shoulder nestles under it at the top of the backswing, then remain still as the clubhead contacts the ball and releases towards its intended target. Only when the right shoulder rotates enough so that it is now under the chin should the golfer allow for the head to come up and turn towards the target.

Making a full shoulder turn during the full swing will translate to more accuracy, because it will be easier for the left arm to stay extended through the backswing and downswing rather than excessively bending (thereby making it easier to return the clubhead to the ball, as the golfer will not have to worry about 'un-bending' the left arm at the precise moment of contact). The head will also stay much more still during the swing, which is a must for accurate timing and solid contact.

A full shoulder turn will also equate to more power, because when one makes a full shoulder turn during the backswing they are using their biggest upper body muscles to guide the club rather than their arms or hands; winding up their torso and storing, or 'loading up' energy to be powerfully released on the downswing.

How hand position on the grip determines ball flight

2010-05-18T07:31:00.000-07:00

Subtle changes in hand position on the grip can dramatically alter ball flight, so having a sound grip is incredibly important. It is absolutely imperative that the hands are placed on the same spot on the grip every time (unless the golfer is attempting to manipulate a ball flight so that it curves a particular direction in the air - in which case the hands may be moved ever so slightly in order to encourage a draw, fade, slice, or hook).

There seems to be quite a bit of confusion about what is a 'weak' grip and what is a 'strong' grip. Simply put, the more the hands are rotated clockwise on the grip, the stronger the grip. The more the hands are rotated counter-clockwise, the weaker the grip.

A stronger grip will encourage a draw or hook because when the hands are rotated clockwise (with the 'V's' pointing to the right shoulder or to the right of the right shoulder for a right handed golfer) the hands and clubhead will easily rotate through the contact area with the toe leading the heel and the clubface closing. When the clubface contacts the ball in this fashion it will put hook spin (right to left in the air) on the ball.

A weaker grip will encourage a fade or slice because when the hands are rotated counter-clockwise (with the 'V's' pointing to the chin or left of the chin), it will be more difficult to rotate the hands and clubhead through the contact area. Since the face of the club is not rotating through contact, there is less release of the clubhead and more 'holding on' or not allowing the clubhead to turn over. If the clubhead is travelling on a plane that is inside the target line to outside the target line, or straight down the target line, this can result in straight shots. However, if there is any deviation and the clubhead approaches the ball from outside the target line to inside the target line, the face of the club will swipe across the ball and cause a fade or slice.

It all starts with the left hand. The placement of the right hand will always depend on where the left hand is, because the left hand is always the first hand to put on the club. If the thumb of the left hand is (mistakenly) placed right down the center of the grip (pointing directly at the clubface) then the 'V' formed by the thumb and forefinger will be pointing at the chin. No knuckles (aside from the thumb) will be visible.

Since the thumb of the left hand should fit right in the lifeline of the right hand as it is placed on the grip, the right hand is subject to the position of the left (so when the right hand is placed on the grip the 'V' will also point to the chin). Generally speaking, this is too weak of a grip. The placement of the left hand should be rotated a bit more clockwise on the grip so that the thumb is just right of center and the knuckle of the forefinger and middle finger of the left hand are visible. This will get the left hand 'V' pointing towards the right shoulder and the right hand will be placed on top of the left, so that the 'V' is pointing the same direction.

The danger in this strong left hand grip is holding the grip too much in the fingers with the left hand and not enough in the palm. If the golfer holds the grip in their fingers with the left hand, as the clubhead travels through the contact area the palm of the left hand will close the clubface and rotate excessively. If the left hand grip is more in the palm (or along the lifeline), it will be more difficult to excessively rotate the clubface and the golfer will be able to swing freely without the likelihood of hitting a hook.

Similarities between golf and other sports

2010-05-16T08:31:00.000-07:00

The golf swing can be very confusing and intimidating to a beginning golfer. While golf is unique in that one doesn't necessarily need to be 'athletically inclined' to be decent at the game, there are many similarities between golf and other sports. Learning about the comparisons between them can help a new golfer understand the swing. Some examples follow.

The golf swing as it relates to a 'pitch' in baseball

When a pitcher is on the mound, they stare right at their intended target just before beginning the windup (or backswing, in golf). As their arm (clubhead) comes back, the body weight begins to load up on the right leg (for a right-hander). The pitcher's arm and ball (or, a golfer's club) reach a transition point. Then, there is a powerful release of body weight over to the left side of the body (which actually begins just before the arm comes all the way back), with the arm and ball (golfer's clubhead) following suit. The pitcher then ends up with all their body weight on the left side of the body (for a golfer it would be about 90% body weight in order to keep the right foot on the ground and balanced on the tip of the right shoe). At the finish, both the pitcher and the golfer should face their intended target, having made a full release and follow through.

The golf swing as it relates to bowling

When a bowler is setting up to roll the rock, they bring the ball back as they are stepping forward. This movement creates more power and ball speed (if it did not, they would simply bring the ball back and through while standing on the line just before the lane). This is like the golf swing in that there is a transfer of body weight (to the left side) beginning before the club has come all the way back to the top of the backswing, creating torque and power on the downswing. As the bowler lunges forward and braces their left foot by the line, the leg must remain very firm, as most of the bowler's body weight will be loading up on it (just like in the golfer's downswing). Additionally, the move a bowler makes in order to put 'english' on the ball (to get it to spin) can help a golfer understand how to hit a draw, because the more the right hand rotates through contact, the more a ball will draw (or spin right to left, in the bowler's case).

The golf swing as it relates to tennis

The analogies between golf and tennis are plentiful. A tennis racket must accelerate through the ball in order to make a good stroke. The head must stay stable with the eyes on the ball as contact is made and the racket (club) releases down the target line. Swinging too hard or out of balance will usually result in the ball going out of bounds. Body weight loads up on the right side on the backswing and to the left on the downswing, then completely left on the follow through. The ball must be hit on the sweet spot, directly in the middle of the racket (clubface). Rolling the racket from an open to a closed position through contact will result in a topspin shot (or a draw in golf). Keeping the wrist and hand firm through contact and not allowing it to close will result in a backspin shot (or a fade in golf). The racket (club shaft) should end up in a high position by the head at the end of the follow through.

One can draw comparisons between golf and almost any other sport (fishing, basketball, hockey, etc.). So, having some experience with other sports can certainly help one learn more about the golf swing (with a little guidance from a teaching professional).

Keeping practice fun

2010-05-15T09:14:00.000-07:00

For most people, practicing golf is nowhere near as fun as actually playing the game. However, if you can get creative with your practice regimen you can boost the level on the 'enjoyment-ometer' significantly. I do think it's important to find a partner to practice with whenever possible. Playing by yourself is much more enjoyable than practicing by yourself in my opinion. When you're playing by yourself you can at least play against old man par (or old man double-bogey depending on your level/ goals). So, find a friend with similar golf ability and try the following games.

H-O-R-S-E

Works best on a putting green, and can be played with two or a handful of people. Just like the basketball version, if you make a shot, your partner has to make the same shot or they get a letter. First one to spell HORSE is out of the game. This one is fun to play in a park as well, trying to get balls to hit trunks of trees or land in certain grassy areas.

Play nine on the practice hole

Many practice holes at public golf courses will have miniature flags on the green that are numbered one through nine. So, get your buddy and grab a scorecard, and play nine holes on the putting green. This can be done by starting each 'hole' on the green with a putt or off the green with a chip or pitch shot. Score the game just as you would score an ordinary round of golf. Eighteen holes can be played in less than a half-hour! The pair can also elect to play skins or match play rather than stroke play.

Target shooting on the range

Pick a target on the driving range and try to hit it, then have your partner try to hit it. I like a game where each player has 10 balls and tries to hit each to a specific target, noting 'how many out of ten' hit the target. Obviously this only works if the driving range has target greens to hit or if the 'ball-pickup cart' is parked on the range (even better if someone is driving it around.. moving targets are the best).

Chipping contests

See who can chip or pitch shots closest to a hole, scoring points for each hole (first one to ten wins or something thereabouts). The game can be also played by having to putt out in order to validate the shot (if the player misses the putt, the hole is a push). Additionally, there is a game where tees are placed in a circle around the hole (about eight inches apart) and the players try to putt or chip balls so that the ball stops within the circle. Each time a ball stops in the circle the player gets to remove a tee from the circle and put it in their pocket. Whichever player has the most tees after ten shots wins.

These games can be even better with an adult beverage close at hand. So, get creative with the practice and keep it fun!

How to keep the head still during the golf swing

2010-05-14T09:50:00.000-07:00

The head should remain perfectly still for all shots in golf. The only exception is the follow through on a full swing, when the head comes up out of its position only at the very end of the swing and turns to face the intended target. The head and spine should be thought of as the solid post that we turn around. If that post moves during the backswing then contacting the ball correctly is quite difficult, as that means the post must be returned to its exact starting position. Additionally, many golfers lift their head too soon in an attempt to look at the ball travelling towards the target, which throws off contact and swing plane. There are a few drills that can help keep the head still during the golf swing.

The "no-lookie-lookie"

Line up ten balls or so (about eight inches apart) about ten yards off the practice green. Pick any arbitrary spot on the green and start hitting the balls. Hit the first ball, then allow the club to brush back over the grass as it comes down and you step forward to hit the next ball (the club should never stop moving) and so on until the balls have all been hit. The key here is to never look up at where the balls are going until after the last ball has been hit. Among other things, this trains you to keep the eyes down on the contact spot until after contact and thereby keep the head still. The more one practices this drill the easier it becomes to resist the 'lifting up' before or at contact that plagues many golfer's swings.

The "door-stop stabilizer"

Take a triangular rubber door-stop and place it under the right foot so that the foot tilts inwards. Take some swings and get a feeling of the body weight loading up on the inside of the right leg during the backswing. The door-stop will prevent the gruesome 'slide' that occurs as many golfers take the club back (in which the body weight slides to the outside of the right foot and leg, resulting in the head and torso moving backwards away from the target). Get comfortable with the new sensation and go back to taking normal swings, while trying to maintain the same weight transfer to the inside of the right leg experienced with the door-stop.

The "head holder"

If all else fails have a golf instructor or a friend simply stand in front of you, extend their arm, and hold the top of your head as you swing the club. If your friend has to physically increase their grip on your head in order to keep it in place then you should keep working on the drills above. This will also give you a better feeling of staying still when the head is forced to stay in place. Also, try and look at your swing on video or in a mirror occasionally to see what's going on.

The 5 elements of the set-up

2010-05-14T08:37:00.000-07:00

There are five primary things a golfer needs to do in order to prepare to hit a golf shot. As a whole they represent the 'set-up' in golf:

1. Grip

2. Alignment

3. Stance

4. Posture

5. Ball position

Grip

The grip is the most important element of the set-up. It is the only thing that connects us to the golf club and it is vital that one has a sound grip with the hands in the proper position. Whether a baseball, overlap, or interlock grip is used, one should pay very close attention to where the hands sit on the grip and assure that they are consistently in the correct spot. Any slight variance in hand position will drastically alter how the face of the club contacts the ball (and consequently alter ball flight).

Alignment

We have to aim correctly, and what may feel like correct aim is very often nothing resembling it. Again, slight variances in aim make a huge difference in where the ball ends up. Mistakenly aim two inches left of the target line and the ball could end up twenty yards left of the intended landing spot. Refer to the 'train track method of alignment' and assure that an intermediate target is used for every shot (an intermediate target is a distinguishable spot along the target line very close to the ball, such as a divot or broken tee - making it easier to aim).

Stance

Stance will differ depending on the club in our hands and the shot we are attempting to hit. For chip shots, the feet should be very close together. Pitch shots and lofted clubs require about a shoulder width stance, and longer clubs require a bit more than shoulder width stance (for balance). A good guideline to follow is the closer to the green, the more narrow the stance. However, greenside bunkers require a bit wider stance (again, for balance) and putting calls for a shoulder width stance.

Posture

Avoid the slouch. The back should be very straight, with a very slight bend in the knees and weight on the balls of the feet. The buttocks should be in a bit of a 'sitting' position with some tension in the hamstrings. The chin should be slightly raised so that the shoulders can turn freely under it during the swing without the head moving. Most beginners seem to set up in too much of a standing position with excessive knee bend. Try to have the grip of the club (for any club aside from the putter) 'pointing' at belt buckle level as a guideline.

Ball position

Ball position is again dependent upon what club being used and what shot being attempted. When putting, the ball should be just forward of center. When chipping, the ball should be played back of center. For all other shots, the ball should be played about off the left cheek (and yes, I'm referring to the cheek on a face) with more lofted clubs just a bit more towards the nose and less lofted clubs a bit more towards the left ear (for right handed golfers). The stance widens a bit with each 'less lofted' club but the ball position should remain approximately off the left cheek.

The importance of learning these elements of the set-up can not be over estimated. One should assure they are consistent across the board with all five segments and have an instructor check them frequently.

Keep it moving

2010-05-13T14:28:00.000-07:00

Eighteen holes of golf should not take more than four hours to play, even if you're playing as part of a foursome. Three hour rounds and less are quite possible if the group you're in agrees to play 'Ready Golf' rather than 'Honors Golf'. There are also other ways to speed up the round so that you don't spend half the day on the links (although there are worse places to spend half a day).

Ready golf vs. honors golf

When playing the traditional 'honors golf' style, the player who is furthest from the hole always plays first, then the person second furthest away plays, and so on. Also, the person who got the best score on the previous hole always tees off first, then the second best score, etc. This is the normal way to play during tournaments and official golf events.

When playing 'ready golf' rather than 'honors golf', the player hits the ball when they are ready to hit the ball, regardless of their place in the order. The first person to reach their ball hits away instead of waiting for the player further away from the hole to reach their ball. The same concept holds true on the green, and on the tee-box. There is a much more even flow to 'ready golf' because there is less standing around looking at each other trying to determine who has 'honors'. Cumulative time saved is significant as well, which is the prime benefit.

Line up your putt while others are putting out

Try to read the break of the green and pick your target line while the other players are putting, rather than having to go through the entire pre-shot routine only after they've holed out. Keep in mind that excessively obsessing over reading the break of a putt from all angles is probably not necessary unless you are in a competition or playing for serious money. This holds up play and is irritating to everyone. Also, try to take your practice swings and pick your target line on the tee box and fairway while others are hitting. Less can be more with practice swings, too (take two at the most).

When approaching the green to putt, make sure to place the golf bag as close to the next hole as possible.

There is very little that is more aggravating that following a slow group and watching someone put their bag on the opposite side of the next hole on every green. They have to walk all the way over to their bag after holing out and then walk all the way back over the green to the next hole, meanwhile you could have been hitting your approach shot. Not a big deal if it happens on one hole, but not something to make habitual.

Guys, ease up on flirting with the cart girl

Seriously, she ain't interested in anything but that green stuff in your wallet. I know she's attractive and you've had a few, but it's a little pathetic and the group behind you is starting to tap their feet.

And ladies, there is a time to get together and talk and it shouldn't be during the round. Hit the nineteenth hole afterwards and gab away.

Hopefully following this advice will get you around in less time because hey, time is precious!

Get dirty

2010-05-13T10:19:00.000-07:00

Ben Hogan said it best when he famously stated: "The Secret is in The Dirt."

Whenever possible, a golfer should practice their swing on actual turf rather than on a driving range mat (artificial turf). There are several reasons why and I will go through each.

A driving range mat is deceiving

You don't need to make perfect contact with the ball when hitting off a mat. If the clubhead contacts the ground before the ball, it will 'glide', or 'bounce' off the mat and often contact the ball so that it produces a decent shot. If this same thing happens when hitting off the grass, the turf will rob the clubhead of most of its speed, chunking a divot out of the ground before the ball and likely only dribbling the ball a few yards forward. When hitting balls off the grass, a ball must be hit with much more precision. Since we play golf on the grass, not a huge driving range mat, it is best to replicate actual playing conditions whenever possible.

A driving range mat does not tilt

If a range mat did tilt (and there may be driving ranges with this technology that I am unaware of) it would be much more similar to an actual golf course. On nearly every shot hit during a round of golf (aside from the tee shot) there will be some degree of an uphill lie, a downhill lie, a sidehill like, or some combination of two angles. Rarely will a shot be perfectly aligned to our stance once we are off the tee. When practicing on actual turf we can usually find some uphill, downhill, or sidehill lies to hit from.

A driving range mat does not have rough

It would be nice if each shot we hit ended up in a perfectly manicured fairway, sitting up nicely so that we could glide the clubhead smoothly through the ball. Not the case. We must play the ball as it lies (in most cases), often deep in long grass or sitting in a divot. There is no way to duplicate all of the different types of shots on a range mat. On the course, one must hit down crisply on the ball, with the clubhead moving down into the ground after contact (for iron shots). This is not as important off the mat.

Find a local park (as long as you aren't violating park rules), a practice hole at the local municipal course, or some open field, get a shag bag, and get a feel for hitting all clubs off the turf (aside from the putter and driver). When you do visit the driving range, focus more on practicing shots off the tee. This will be a more realistic method, duplicating actual tee shots.

Some good putting drills

2010-05-13T09:00:00.000-07:00

There are several good putting drills that can help you improve with the flat stick. Here are a few that I use in my instruction.

Putt to the fringe

Drop balls on different areas on the green and putt towards the fringe, trying to get the ball to stop right in the fringe. This drill helps a golfer get a good sense of distance control without focusing on a specific target such as a golf hole.

Three clubs on the ground

Lay three clubs on the ground. The first two should be about six inches apart from each other (parallel) and pointing towards the hole (this works best for straight putts). The other club should be parallel to the other two, and touching the tips of the golfer's feet as they set up. Putt balls in between the first two clubs towards the hole. This teaches the player to get the clubhead going straight back and straight through along the target line (because otherwise the clubhead will hit the shaft of one of the clubs on the ground) and also how to set up with the feet parallel left of the target line.

3,6,9,12

Place four balls down in a straight line. The first ball should be about three feet away from the hole, the second about six feet, the third about nine feet and the fourth about twelve. Try to putt the balls in the hole, starting with the three footer, then the six footer, and so on. If any putt is missed, the golfer must 'start over' with the three footer. Only when all balls are made should the golfer move on to the next drill. This teaches distance control on a small to medium length scale and puts a little pressure on the player to make the longer putts.

Circle the hole

Place eight to ten balls in a circle around the hole, with each ball a few feet away from the hole. Walk around the circle and attempt to make each putt. This will make the golfer more comfortable with shorter putts and build confidence. They will get a sense of playing small variances in the break of the green as well. Focus should be on keeping the head still and putting the ball with enough pace so that it hits the back of the cup.

Lean a club on the leg

Putt balls to the hole with a club leaning on either leg. Try to keep the lower body completely still during the golf stroke so that the leaning club does not move. If the club moves, the golfer has used lower body motion during the putt (a no-no). Lower body motion during a putt makes distance control more difficult to gauge.

Putt to a tee or a ball

Instead of putting to the hole, putt to a tee (pushed into the ground on the putting surface), or another golf ball. After a bit of practice doing this, putt to a hole again and notice how much bigger the hole seems. This will help a golfer putt on the target line with greater accuracy.

Look for the black dot

After a ball is hit on the green, a 'black spot' where the ball used to be is visible for a split second. Putt the ball then look for the black spot on the ground before looking at where the ball is going. This will train the player to keep the eyes down until after contact, an absolute must for good putting. This drill is most valuable on short putts, when the desire to lift the eyes up too soon is the greatest.

Try these drills and hopefully your putting will improve. Remember to keep it fun and challenge yourself.

Why more lofted clubs are easier to hit

2010-05-13T07:45:00.000-07:00

The more degree of loft on a golf club, the easier it is to hit. Not only is it easier to make consistent contact, but there is also a greater likelihood of the ball going straight. For these reasons, a golfer should learn to hit more lofted clubs before they try to learn how to hit less lofted clubs.

Why are the more lofted clubs easier to hit? Number one, the more loft on the clubface, the more backspin will be imparted on the ball. As loft decreases, backspin gives way to sidespin. The sand wedge (lob wedge) has the most loft and therefore creates the highest amount of backspin. It is very difficult to put sidespin on a ball (drawing or fading the ball) with a sand wedge even if the golfer tries to on purpose.

Additionally, shorter clubs are easier to hit, and the more loft on a club the shorter the shaft. Shorter clubs put us closer to the ball at address, allowing us to swing the club on a steep plane (more 'in front' of our body than 'around the back' of it). The club will also swing on a smaller arc which makes the timing easier.

The driver (the least lofted club) is generally the hardest club to hit because if the timing is not perfect (clubface must contact the ball completely square to the target line), a great deal of sidespin will be imparted on the ball and cause it to hook or slice uncontrollably. During a driver swing, the clubhead must travel on the biggest arc of all the clubs, and on the flattest plane of all the clubs. Getting the shaft on the correct plane on the downswing with the driver is a difficult task for most beginning golfers to achieve. They will generally get it too steep on the way down and pull or slice the ball.

While it's true that modern day drivers are easier to hit than they used to be (due to a larger clubface/ sweet spot), mastering the drive can take a lot of time, so it's something a golfer should work towards patiently. It's better to hit an eight iron to the fairway than hitting a driver out of bounds or into a hazard. Get comfortable hitting the more lofted clubs then work through the other clubs one by one, decreasing loft as the swing improves.

How high should you tee the ball?

2010-05-10T08:28:00.000-07:00

Teeing up the golf ball is the most overlooked aspect of the set-up. If a golfer is not consistent with the height of their tee (with respect to the club in their hand), both the contact and the flight of the golf ball will be unpredictable.

One should pay as much attention to tee height as they would ball position, or any other part of the set-up (the things a golfer does before they take the swing in order to prepare to hit a shot). Since we only tee a golf ball up once per-hole (on the tee-box, or 'the first shot on each hole' for those unfamiliar with golf terminology), we should make sure to get it right so that there is no guesswork involved.

Tee-height should be different for every club in the bag.

For a short par three hole we would be using a very lofted club such as a pitching wedge or nine iron. When teeing up a ball for these clubs, tee height should be minimal. If the ball is teed up too high with a lofted club there will be a greater chance of the club sliding too far underneath the ball and catching the ball well above the sweet spot on the clubface. So, the tee should be pushed almost all the way into the ground so that the ball is resting barely above the turf. The golfer should treat the shot like an ordinary shot from the fairway, hitting down on the ball and allowing the clubhead to travel into the turf after contact.

For a medium to longer length par three hole, a mid to long iron would be the appropriate club. The tee height on these shots should be just a bit higher than it was with the more lofted clubs because we are not hitting down on the ball quite as dramatically. Since the swing is a bit more of a sweeping motion than a steep descending blow, the clubhead will be travelling 'along the turf' more than down into it. This means the sweet spot on the clubface will be a bit higher than it was with a more lofted club, so the ball is teed just a wee bit higher.

When teeing up a ball for a hybrid club or fairway wood, again, the ball is set just a tiny bit higher than it was with the mid to long irons. As the swing becomes less of a descending blow and more of a sweep (where we are catching the ball as the clubhead reaches the bottom of the swing arc) the ball should be teed up a fraction higher.

Lastly, the driver. When setting a ball on the tee for the big dog, there is a general guideline; set the ball on the tee so that when the driver's clubhead is resting on the ground, half of the ball is visible above the top of the clubhead. The ball is teed up so high with this club because the intent with the driver is to catch the ball on the clubface as the clubhead is just starting to come up from the bottom of the swing arc. In other words, we should hit the driver slightly on the upswing. Also, the sweet spot on a driver is higher on the clubface than it is on the other clubs merely because there is more surface area. The sweet spot on a three-wood might be a half-inch up from the bottom of the clubface, whereas the sweet spot on a driver might be a full inch from the bottom.

Just like every other part of the set-up (grip, stance, alignment, posture, and ball position), the more consistent we are with tee height the more repeatable our swings become.

Putting grip vs. standard grip

2010-05-06T10:39:00.000-07:00

Having a proper grip on the golf club is the most important fundamental in golf. An incorrect grip will not only result in poor golf shots, but the longer one goes on golfing without having a proper grip, the more natural that incorrect grip will feel and the harder it will be to feel comfortable with a correct grip.

There are two different ways to grip the club during a round of golf. The putting grip is the first, and the second is for any shot that is not a putt. The putter can be gripped a variety of ways, whereas the other grip should be pretty much the same for everyone. If one grips the club in the 'conventional fashion' when putting (as opposed to a 'claw grip', 'belly-putter grip', or a garden variety of other options), both thumbs should be set flat, vertically, and in the middle of the grip directly in front of the golfer's body, with the back of the left hand and the right palm facing the target line.

Whether the left hand is set lower on the putter grip or the right hand lower is up to the individual. Keep in mind, however, that when PGA professionals are asked the question, "what is the one thing you would have done differently in your career", the majority of them say they wished they would have started putting with their left hand low (or 'cross-handed') rather than their right hand.

The reason why cross-handed putting can be beneficial is because it's easier to keep the left wrist firm during a putting stroke. With a right hand lower grip on the putter there is a tendency to break the wrists a bit at impact, thereby making distance control more difficult to judge and accuracy less than desirable. Additionally, cross-handed putting grips set the shoulders a bit more level at address, which encourages a more even stroke on the ball and through the impact zone.

A beginning golfer should experiment with both the right hand lower and the left hand lower method to determine what works best for them. It is advisable to avoid the unconventional type of putter grips unless nothing else seems to be working.

For every shot in golf that is not a putt, there is a standard grip the golfer should impart on the club (with a couple of subtle exceptions). The right hand will always be lower than the left for this grip. Whether a golfer chooses a baseball grip (hands separate but touching), an interlock grip (right pinky interlocked between the forefinger and middle finger of the left hand), or an overlap grip (right pinky rests above the crook between the right forefinger and middle finger) is up to the individual - with the recommendation that better golfers generally use an overlap or interlock grip. The baseball grip might be more appropriate for children (because it feels more natural to them) or seniors (because they are looking to use more hand action due to decreased shoulder turn).

The left hand should always be placed on the grip before the right hand. The left thumb should be flat along the grip, but just right of center (so that the first two knuckles of the hand are visible). Most beginners put the thumb right down the middle of the grip, but this makes it too difficult to properly rotate the clubhead as it comes in to contact with the ball (often resulting in slices). It also puts the club in a bad position at the top of the backswing which makes it difficult to return the clubhead to square when it makes contact with the ball. If the hand is rotated clockwise a bit so that the left thumb is a bit right of center, the V that is formed by the thumb and forefinger will point between the chin and the right shoulder. This will allow the club to get set in a square position at the top of the backswing, with the left thumb directly under and supporting the club, and will allow for the clubhead to naturally rotate through the ball.

After the left hand is set in a good position on the grip, the right hand should be set with the left thumb set along the lifeline of the right hand. The right hand should grip the club more in the fingers than the hand (whereas the left hand grip is more along the lifeline in the palm). Again, the V that is formed by the right forefinger and thumb should point between the chin and right shoulder, the exact same direction the V from the left hand points.

Although the thumbs and hands are in slightly different positions on the conventional grip than they are on the putting grip, the back of the left hand and the right palm should still point along the target line.

Some basic rules of golf

2010-05-05T09:10:00.000-07:00

Do you have to follow the rules when you play golf? Not necessarily, but it's good to at least know a few of the basics in case you ever get serious enough about the game to compete on any level. Here is a summary of some of the basic rules of golf.

A golfer must use the same ball for the entire hole

The ball you tee off with must be played out to the finish of that hole. The only time this is not true is if the ball goes out of bounds or is lost. Also, if a ball becomes so damaged or cut up that it is deemed 'unplayable', a new ball can be played (providing your playing partners or rules officials agree). Switching balls between holes is ok.

It's ok to tee off up to two club lengths behind the tee markers

You don't have to tee off right between the tee markers, the ball may be teed up up to two driver club lengths behind them. However, the ball may never be teed up even slightly ahead of the tee markers. Additionally, it's ok to stand outside of the tee markers when taking your stance as long as the ball is in between them.

If a ball goes out of bounds the golfer must take a penalty stroke and hit again from the original spot

If you think your ball had even the slightest possibility of going out of bounds and it is not visible in bounds, it is always best to hit a provisional (second) shot in case the first one is in fact out of bounds. Otherwise the golfer will have to trudge back to their original spot if they reach the spot where they thought their ball was and it is determined to be o.b. If a ball is hit out of bounds off the tee, the golfer must take a penalty stroke and tee off again (hitting their third shot rather than their second because of the penalty).

*Out of bounds stakes are white. If any part of the ball is in bounds, it is ok to play, even if you have to stand out of bounds (although removing the stakes is not permissible). A golfer has five minutes to look for a ball, then it is deemed 'lost' and must be played as if it is out of bounds. Again, if you think a ball could be lost, hit a provisional ball.

*When playing a provisional ball, the golfer must announce they are playing a provisional. If the original ball is in fact found after hitting a provisional, it is ok to play the original ball.

If you meant to hit a shot but whiffed the ball, it counts as a stroke

The honors system comes in to play a bit on this one, because often times a whiff can be played off as a practice swing. However, it is a bit more obvious than one may think. When one witnesses the whiff, it is usually pretty evident that the golfer meant to hit the ball. So, suck it up and admit it was a whiff, then hunker down and get the clubhead on the ball on the next shot.

Yellow stake water hazards

This would be a body of water that you have to hit over on the way to the green. If it goes in the water hazard, you have to take a penalty stroke and drop the ball along the line it went in on, as far back on that line as you want.

Red stake water hazards (lateral water hazard)

These usually run parallel to the hole on either side of the fairway. If the ball goes in you must take a penalty stroke and drop the ball within two club lengths of where the ball entered the hazard (on the opposite side of the hazard but no closer to the hole).

*On both yellow and red stake hazards, if the ball is playable in the hazard, it is ok to play the ball with no penalty, providing you don't touch the ball to the water or any part of the hazard before making your swing (or you would incur a one stroke penalty). This means you also can't ground the club in a sand trap before making a swing, because a sand trap is also deemed a 'hazard'.

There are three options for an unplayable lie (must take a penalty stroke for all three)

1. Drop within two club-lengths of the spot where the ball lies, no closer to the hole.

2. Proceed under the out of bounds rule (return to the original spot).

3. Drop as far back as you want from the point where the ball is, keeping that point between you and the hole.

On the green:

If a ball on the green hits another ball after it is putted, it is a two stroke penalty for the person that hit the putt. If it is your ball that is hit, there is no penalty and you must replace the ball as close to the original spot as possible (the lesson here is to always ask another player to mark their ball if you think there is a slight possibility that your ball could hit it).

If a ball is putted on the green and it hits the flagstick, it is a two stroke penalty.

Cart paths:

If a ball is on a cart path, the golfer may choose to drop the ball up to one club length away from the cart path, no closer to the hole (with no penalty).

Hopefully these basic rules will help (should you ever choose to actually play by the rules). Golf is an easy game to cheat at, but remember you are only cheating yourself if you do!

Club selection for beginners

2010-05-05T08:11:00.000-07:00

In order to get good at golf, you have to know which club to grab for any situation on the course. For someone new to the game, it can be extremely confusing determining what each club is for, and why there are so many in the bag. They will likely know what a putter is for, and (maybe) what a driver is for, but the twelve clubs in between are pretty much a mystery.

So, we have (a maximum of) fourteen clubs in the bag. All of these clubs have a different 'loft', or angle. The least lofted club is the putter, which has only a couple of degrees of loft, and the most lofted club is the sand wedge, which could have as much as sixty-eight degrees of loft (although most sand wedges average more like fifty-six degrees).

The reason the putter has almost no loft is because the intent is to get the ball rolling immediately, without the ball going up in the air. The putter does have a couple of degrees of loft because this helps to get the ball rolling more smoothly off the face of the club, without popping or bouncing off of it.

Shots that are closest to the green but not on the green (chip shots) require a lot of loft but not the most. The idea with these shots is to get the ball on the green on a lower trajectory and rolling the majority of the way on the green rather than flying in the air. The best plan is to take a club with just enough loft to get the ball on the green just past the fringe and rolling the rest of the way. For example, if a ball is right next to the green (a couple of feet away from the fringe) and the pin is set on the opposite side of the green, a seven iron might be an appropriate club selection because this will pop the ball over the fringe, get it on the green on a low trajectory and rolling towards the pin.

If the ball is a bit further away from the green (say ten feet or so) and there is not as much green to work with, a pitching wedge might be a good club selection, because this will have a bit more loft to it, allowing the ball to fly a little higher and land a bit softer (translating to the ball flying further in the air and not rolling as much on the green). If the ball is even further away (twenty to sixty yards for the average golfer) then a sand wedge is probably the best option, because the ball should fly on an even higher trajectory and roll the least amount when it lands, spending the majority of its time in the air and very little rolling on the green. One can pretty much aim right for the pin, or just before it, with the sand wedge.

The shots explained above (shots from approximately sixty yards and in) comprise the 'short game' in golf. These shots require some creativity and a lot of touch and should be practiced often. Club selection will depend not only on the proximity to the green but also where the pin is on the green. Almost all clubs in the bag can and should be used for the short game. Practice different shots with different clubs and determine what works best in each situation, following the premise that the more green one has to work with, the less lofted club should be used in order to maximize the roll on the green.

Shots that are even further away from the green (sixty to two hundred and twenty yards for the average golfer) are much more cut and dry, because the golfer will be performing a 'full swing' rather than the partial swing required for the short game. The rule here is simple, the closer to the green, the more lofted club should be selected. A good benchmark is to take one less lofted club for every ten to fifteen yards further away from the green (one hundred yards away may require a nine iron while one hundred and twelve yards away may require an eight iron.. one hundred and eighty yards away may require a five wood while one hundred and ninety five yards may require a three wood).

In summary, one should get creative and experiment with different clubs when practicing the short game, and also go to a driving range to determine approximately how far each club is hit when performing a full swing.

The correct transfer of body weight during the full swing

2010-05-04T09:25:00.000-07:00

The correct transfer of body weight in the golf swing is imperative to achieve a proper stroke on the ball. It must be learned early on because the natural tendency for most people is to transfer the weight incorrectly, usually in the exact opposite fashion of the proper method (resulting in the classic 'reverse pivot', which will usually translate to weak, over the top slices). The longer that one performs the incorrect motion the more difficult it will be to unlearn it.

Simply put, for a full swing, when the club comes back, the body weight should come back to the right side (for right handed golfers). The golfer should feel as though their body weight is 'loading up' on the right side as the club comes back away from the ball. Do not let the body weight 'roll' to the outside of the right foot, because this will cause a sway away from the ball, and the head and spine will not remain still (imperative for making good contact). Rather, feel as though the body weight is loading up on the inside of the right leg and instep of the right foot. This will serve as a solid 'post' to pivot back on instead of a weak and passive one.

When the club reaches the top of the backswing, the golfer's first move should be to turn their hips to the left, quickly. Then the golfer should effort to get their body weight over to the left side quickly as the arms and club follow. The left leg should remain firm and solid so that the golfer can powerfully thrust their body weight to the left side without the leg breaking down or falling out of balance. At the end of the swing, or the follow through, about ninety percent of the golfer's body weight should have transferred over to the left side as they face the target and hold the finish. The right heel should have come up and it should feel as though it is very easy to lift the right foot because all body weight is on the left side of the body.

So, why don't people do this naturally? Generally because the beginning golfer feels the need to try and help the ball into the air rather than trusting the loft of the club to do this. What this creates is a 'scooping' motion where the golfer leans into their left side on the takeaway, with the spine tilting forward as the club comes back. Then on the downswing they transfer their weight to the back foot as the club comes down and their spine tilts to the right, trying to make good contact on the ball (usually unsuccessfully) and often actually walking or falling backwards on the follow through.

Think of it like this, would you rather have your body weight transferring forward, through the ball (to the left) as the club makes contact, or away from the ball (to the right)? Obviously, more power will be imparted on the ball (and better contact/ ball flight) when the body weight is helping, rather than hurting.

Take a divot

2010-04-03T06:48:00.000-07:00

Newer golfers and high handicappers are often afraid to take divots. This is due largely in part to the negative association with divots they've taken in the past. Most of these chunks of turf that they've dug out of the ground have started before the ball, resulting in fat, ugly shots. Divots are good (and essential for proper contact), providing they occur after the ball is struck. Ideally, the clubface should contact the ball, then bottom out on its swing arc after contact and under the turf (thereby taking a divot). This is true for all clubs except the putter, driver, fairway woods off the tee, and when hitting short chip shots.

The negative association with taking divots leads the golfer to try and 'pick the ball clean' off the turf. This discourages the descending blow that is required to get the ball on the correct trajectory, and encourages a weak, wrist-y shot in which the golfer 'lifts up' at the ball rather than hitting down. Many 'topped' or 'thin' shots will result when using this method. Hitting down on the ball is the only way to achieve good distance and get the ball up in the air.

A divot should be taken with every iron, because every iron should be hit with a descending blow (a fairway wood should also be hit with a descending blow, but so minimally that a divot likely will not occur). The more loft on a club, the bigger a divot should be taken. This is because the more lofted the club, the steeper the swing plane (and more of a descending blow). As loft decreases, the swing plane flattens out and the strike on the ball becomes more of a 'sweeping' blow (although still hit on the downswing).

One of the reasons I encourage practicing in the grass whenever possible (as opposed to off a driving range mat) is because this is the only way to get a true indication of how you are hitting the ball. A mat can be deceiving in that you can still hit a ball fat (contacting the ground before the ball) and get away with it to some degree because the club will sort of 'drag' along the surface before contacting the ball. When a fat shot is hit on the grass an 'incorrect' divot results (divot is taken too soon, the turf slows down the clubhead speed, and the clubface either does not contact the ball at all or it contacts the turf before the ball).

When addressing the ball, I believe the golfer should set their hands slightly ahead of the ball and clubhead for all clubs except the driver and putter. Again, more so with the more lofted clubs and less as loft decreases. This will assist in hitting down on the ball and taking an appropriate divot, because when you mimic your intended contact position at address you have a better chance of returning to the same position upon contact.

In addition to the other benefits, a divot will give you instant feedback about your swing. If your divot is very shallow (or non-existent) for a lofted club then you didn't hit the ball on enough of a steep, descending blow. If your divot is huge for a fairway wood then you didn't hit the ball on a flat enough swing plane. Is your divot pointing to the left? Your swing path was outside in and the club released to the left of your target line. Is your divot pointing to the right? Your swing path was inside out and the club released to the right of your target line. Is your divot pointing along your intended target line and the appropriate size for the club in your hand? Nice work.

Take a divot to play better golf, but please remember to replace it!

The best way to learn how to play golf

2010-03-28T08:28:00.000-07:00

Learning how to play golf is easy if you adhere to three things. First, you must learn the set-up (the things you do before you make a swing - grip, alignment, stance, posture and ball position). Second, you should learn to hit the short shots (putts, then chips, then pitch shots) before moving on to the big shots (the full swing). Lastly, you must have an incredible amount of patience, because learning how to play this game will likely be one of the biggest challenges you've ever faced. Given time, however (and hitting thousands of golf balls), you will find that things become more automatic as less guesswork is involved. That's when things really get fun.

Generally speaking, I find that most people try to learn the game backwards. They play their first round and hit many poor shots all over the course. However, what they remember the most are the poor shots they hit off of the tee (particularly with their driver) because these shots are 'on stage' more than the others.

Think about it; the new golfer stands on the first tee box with driver in hand. His or her playing partners stand by silently watching, as does the starter, maybe a marshal, and maybe the next group waiting to tee off. This puts a high degree of pressure on the golfer which equates to anxiety, second guessing, tensing up, and likely a muffed/ topped/ shanked or whiffed tee shot. While other equally miserable shots occur on the approach shots and around the green, the golfer will be more likely to dwell on the experience on the tee-box, and will effort to go to great lengths to assure that the kind of embarrassment they felt never happens again.

So, what do they do? They spend a fortune on range balls and try to learn to hit their driver on their own, not realizing that the driver is the hardest club in the bag to hit due to the long shaft and small degree of loft on the clubface. They are trying to learn how to run before learning how to walk, or even crawl. They reinforce bad habits and set those habits into their muscle memory, further decreasing the likelihood that they will ever learn the right way to swing a club. You see these guys and gals all over the driving range; teeing up ball after ball, swinging the club (usually a driver) at 100% of their effort level every time, usually making a huge reverse-pivot, trying to control the club with their arms and wrists rather than making a proper shoulder turn, swinging dramatically from 'outside-in' on the downswing, and lifting their eyes and head up before the clubhead even contacts the ball.

The right way to do it? In my opinion, you have to take a lesson early so that you understand the fundamentals. While everyone has a unique swing, the grip/ stance/ alignment/ posture and ball position should be pretty consistent for everyone (although there are slight variances). In lieu of a lesson, make sure and buy a 'learning how to golf' book and read thoroughly about the set-up. Go back over this information frequently to make sure it is fully ingrained.

If you do take a lesson, make sure that you get an instructor that teaches the game from 'green-to-tee', or in other words, teaches putting and chipping before moving on to pitch shots and the full swing. Since everything in golf is sort of 'inter-connected', it makes sense to learn the small shots and build confidence before moving on to bigger shots that require more body movement and less chance of success.

Putting should be learned first. It requires the smallest swing with the least body movement yet it is a short version of the full swing. This is because all shots in golf should be controlled primarily by the turning of the shoulders, and all putting requires is turning the shoulders without using wrist or body motion. Additionally, as the golfer learns to keep their wrists firm through contact putting teaches them how to lag the clubhead rather than flip the wrists (another element of all other swings). Putting also requires that the golfer keep their eyes down on the contact point until after they've struck the ball, yet another key fundamental of the bigger shots.

Learning how to putt first also builds confidence. The instructor should ideally have their student start with very short putts so that they get accustomed to success and positive feedback as they roll the ball into the hole (albeit on a very small scale). Then they should learn some distance control drills. My favorite is having them hit putts towards the fringe from different spots on the green, simply attempting to get the ball to stop on the fringe just past the green. This takes the pressure off of putting to a small hole from a big distance, and teaches the golfer how to get the ball to stop in a 'general area', which is the essence of longer putts.

Next, the golfer should learn how to hit chip shots (or shots just off the green). This is a natural transition from learning how to putt because the swing is so similar (in that the only thing really moving is the shoulders; rocking them back and rocking them through with very little wrist or body action). The main difference from putting is that the wrists are 'hinged' when chipping; with the hands set ahead of the clubhead at address and throughout the swing. The ball is also moved back in the stance, the stance is a bit more narrow and open, and the golfer's body weight should be more on their front foot than evenly distributed between the two as when putting.

I think that the chip shot is the most important shot for the new beginner to practice because when they practice chipping, they are practicing everything. They are practicing putting because they are just rocking their shoulders as they would when putting; they are practicing chipping (obviously); and they are also practicing pitching and the full swing because when chipping they are simply practicing the most important aspect of these bigger shots: the contact point.

The biggest struggle for a new golfer is learning how to get the clubhead to contact the ball at the right moment on a consistent basis. Trying to do this while taking a full swing is incredibly defeating (at first) because of the high difficulty level and negative feedback. The timing has to be absolutely perfect and there is very little margin for error. The concept of having to 'hit down' on a ball in order to get it airborne is lost on many beginning golfers because natural human instinct tells us we need to try to 'help the ball into the air', or 'try to lift it up with our body' (think reverse pivot and flipping of the wrists through the contact area). This is why the chip shot needs to be learned early. By taking this small stroke, hitting the ball on a descending blow, getting the sweet-spot of the clubhead on the ball (or close to it) and getting the ball in the air and on the green, the golfer is learning some key fundamentals of the full swing and building an excellent foundation from which to build upon. I promise that practicing small chip shots will make you better much faster than practicing full swings with your driver.

Next, the golfer should be introduced to the pitch shot (shots that are further from the green but not yet a full swing away). The pitch shot requires that the golfer start to use some body movement in addition to the turning of the shoulders, but on a smaller scale than a full swing (slight hip rotation, slight leg action, and the rolling of the hands through impact and release). While the intent of the chip shot is to have the ball travel on a low trajectory and roll along the green for awhile, the pitch shot should travel on a higher trajectory and roll less after landing. Again, the pitch shot is simply a short version of the full swing, and teaches the golfer the correct positions to get in on a small scale. As the club comes back, the clubface should 'fan open', square up through contact, and 'fan closed' after releasing - just as in the full swing.

Not only is practicing the short game the best way to learn how to golf, it is also free at almost any golf course. Instead of spending hundreds of dollars on range balls and learning bad habits, spend a little money on lessons to learn the fundamentals then obsess about the short shots (putting, chipping, and pitching). This can be done in your house (with golf whiffle balls at first so you don't break anything), your yard, the park, or ideally the practice green at your local course. Only after spending a great deal of time on the short game and experiencing success on a small scale should the golfer worry much about learning the full swing. When they do finally start in with the full swing however, they will find that it makes a lot more sense after having learned the short stuff first.

Taming the hook

2010-03-14T09:07:00.000-07:00

Fixing a golfer's hook is usually easier than fixing a slice. This is generally because better players fight the hook, while beginning golfers typically fight the slice. As a golfer gets better they learn how to correct their slice by straightening out their ball flight and maybe even getting a slight draw. However, this slight draw can very easily turn into a duck hook, so the golfer must learn to hit a more 'neutral' ball without as much hook spin. Fortunately, this is a fairly easy fix.

Weaken the grip

Rotate the hands counter-clockwise on the grip so that the 'V's' formed by the thumb and forefingers point less to the right shoulder and more to the chin. Weakening the grip in this fashion makes it more difficult to rotate the clubhead through the contact area, thereby decreasing the likelihood of the toe leading the heel when the clubface comes into contact with the ball (which causes a hook). Be careful with this however, because the slightest change in hand position on the grip will cause dramatic changes in ball flight (so, just move them a tiny bit at first).

Lighten right-hand grip pressure

When the golfer grips the club too tight with their right hand, the tendency is to over-rotate the clubhead through contact, as the right side of the body will sort of 'take over' the swing. The right hand and arm are the 'power producers' in the golf swing and the left hand and arm are the 'control producers'; so there needs to be a balance between the two. Since most right handed golfers are actually right handed, they must be careful and try not to power the right side through too forcefully. Make the main 'pressure points' the pinky, ring finger, and middle finger of the left hand, and decrease pressure in the forefinger and thumb of the right hand. A great drill for people who fight the hook is to hit balls with the thumb and forefinger of the right hand completely off of the grip.

Open the stance

A closed stance encourages an 'inside to outside the target line' swing path, which produces draws and hooks due to counter-clockwise spin imparted on the ball. An open stance encourages an 'outside to inside the target line swing path, which produces fades and slices due to clockwise spin imparted on the ball. So, rather than 'closing your body to the target' (right foot pulled back), 'open yourself up to the target' (left foot pulled back). This will also encourage a higher ball flight, as a clubface that is more 'open' has more loft, and the golfer will also swing on a steeper plane. Again, don't do anything too different, just take a slightly more open stance and notice what changes this produces.

Alter the release of the clubhead

Instead of rotating the clubhead through contact, have the feeling of 'holding on' for a fraction longer. As the clubhead comes down towards the ball, have the feeling of keeping the clubface square for a foot or so after contact (rather than rotating the toe past the heel). This method is known as the 'hammer to nail' release, as the golfer should have the feeling that they are contacting the head of a nail with the clubhead at contact, then continuing to drive the nail through the ball and on past it before allowing the clubhead to rotate. This swing thought/ method also encourages getting more lag in the swing and consequently hitting the ball further. Assure that the clubhead is releasing down the target line after contact and not to the left of it.

Try these tips to cure your hook. If you are still having trouble, go see your local pro.

Short game practice is more important than full swing practice

2010-03-13T06:58:00.001-08:00

Practicing the short game is far more important than practicing the full swing. This is especially true for beginners. The novice however, will be more inclined to practice the full swing and neglect the short game. This is probably due largely in part to the stress that the tee-box causes the beginner, as it can be quite embarrassing to chunk or skull a tee-shot. So, most practice is devoted to assuring this doesn't happen again.

Over half of the shots during a round of golf occur on or around the green. Therefore, it makes sense to me to practice the short shots for over half of your practice sessions. Yet you will see most golfers go straight to the range, pull out their driver, and pound balls relentlessly for an hour. These sessions rarely go well, as the driver is the hardest club to hit, so many bad shots occur - thereby reinforcing bad habits and causing the golfer a great deal of frustration.

The driver is a club that a new golfer should work towards patiently, as it is very difficult to hit good drives without first learning the fundamentals of the short game, and then learning how to hit more lofted clubs. You will see better golfers going through a practice session that begins with putting, chipping and pitching. They move on to partial shots with lofted clubs, then full swings with lofted clubs, then full swings with less lofted clubs, and lastly the fairway woods and driver. Once the driver is pulled out of the bag, the golfer is warmed up, stretched out, and ready to practice with the longest club in the bag.

Also, as I've stated many times (as have others), when you practice the short shots you are really practicing the full swing too. This is because practicing the short shots involves the 'contact point', where the club contacts the ball on a very small scale. Given that novice golfers have difficulty contacting the ball on the sweet spot with any regularity, it makes sense to me to practice getting the face of the club on the ball on a small scale before moving on to the full swing. If you ain't got the small shot, you sure as heck ain't gonna get the big shot!

The chip shot is the most important shot for a beginner to practice. When a golfer practices chip shots they are practicing everything. They are practicing putting because the chipping motion is so similar to the putting motion (only with the hands kept ahead of the clubface rather than flush to it). They are also practicing putting because they are getting a feel for distance control, which is what putting is all about. They are also practicing the full swing because they are getting a feel for the club contacting the ball properly, thereby gaining feel and building a solid foundation for the full swing. The chip shot (at the contact point) reinforces all the things that are important about the full swing at contact (hands are ahead of the ball and clubhead at contact, clubface is contacting the ball on a descending blow, the feeling of 'lag' is imparted, the importance of keeping the eyes down through contact is imparted, the necessity for a lighter grip, letting the club swing and not forcing it, etc., etc.).

So, practice that short game obsessively, especially if you are a beginning golfer. Chip shots around your house or yard with golf 'whiffle balls'. Go to your closest public course and utilize the practice green (remember, this is always free!). Practice simply brushing the grass with the clubhead (with no ball), mimicking a chip shot. Remember that if the club doesn't brush the grass at the right spot then the club wont contact the ball at the right spot either.

The more you practice the short game, the better your whole game will get.

Focus when it counts

2010-03-06T09:19:00.001-08:00

Hitting a golf ball takes tremendous focus and self-discipline. During a round of golf, there is very little time spent actually swinging a club at a ball, so it is important to shut out all distractions when setting up for a shot. It is easy to maintain the same frame of mind during a round (laughing with playing partners, joking around, light banter, etc.) but this will not produce good results. While it is good to remain somewhat loose and relaxed when swinging the club, all focus should be on executing the desired shot.

Put yourself in a focused mind-frame:

When preparing to hit a shot, take deep breaths and clear your mind of any outside distractions. Put all energy towards the task at hand and the process you must go through in order to pull off the desired shot. Any personal issues you may have must be temporarily put on the back burner (because these issues are often so consuming that it is difficult to execute a golf shot because they creep into the mind).This can be easier said than done, but it becomes easier with a little practice.

Visualize the shot you want to hit:

As you stand behind the ball and pick out your target line, imagine the exact ball flight you are hoping to achieve with your forthcoming shot. See it flying through the air with any intended curvature, and see it landing at the precise spot you want it to, and rolling to the ultimate target. This will increase the likelihood of success because the focus is on what you want to happen, not what you don't want to happen.

Look at a small spot on the golf ball when setting up:

As you approach the ball and prepare to hit, pick a dimple or small spot on the gall ball to focus on. Look at this spot as you take the club-head away, during your back-swing, and during your downswing. This will train your eyes to stay steady and narrow your focus on the ball. While making sure to look at the ball is great advice, looking at a very small spot on the ball will help you hone in even better.

Loosen up and enjoy the in between times:

Most of a round will consist of NOT hitting a golf ball. So, enjoy yourself. Take in the surroundings, enjoy your playing partners, laugh, and have a good time. Just remember that when it comes time to hit the ball, it's game time, so put on your game face. Allow your body to be free of tension and keep your muscles moving so that they are ready to make an athletic motion, but keep your mind sharp and think about the shot you are trying to hit.

Focus when it counts for better results. Have fun out there!

Intermediate targets: Gotta have em'

2010-02-23T06:02:00.001-08:00

If you don't utilize intermediate targets on the course, you are costing yourself strokes.

Intermediate targets are distinguishable points of reference along your intended target line. They are chosen by the golfer when standing behind the ball and determining what the intended target line actually is. It could be anything from a broken tee to a divot or an off-colored tuft of grass, and the closer to the ball the better.

The primary reason for picking an intermediate target very close to your ball and along your intended target line is to aim more accurately. Since you know that the intermediate target (which is ideally within a few feet of the ball for most shots) is on the target line, it allows you to more easily set the face of the clubhead perpendicular, or perfectly square, to the target line. Rather than trying to point the face of the clubhead at a target that may be hundreds of yards down the fairway, all you have to do is aim it at a (intermediate) target a couple of feet ahead of the ball. Picking an intermediate target is part of my pre-shot routine for all shots from putts to drives. I consider it the only way to align myself correctly.

I will always begin the routine by standing well behind the ball (at least 10 feet), then I determine my target line by holding up the shaft of my club so that I can see both the ball and the intended target along the shaft (it's best to do this while looking through only your dominant eye and closing the other). Then, with the club still raised and looking through my dominant eye, I will pick an intermediate target (any distinguishable point of reference) that is as close to my ball as possible. I will often look up the shaft and pick another one or two intermediate targets that I might look at when I do address the ball, to further confirm the target line. Then, I bring the shaft down and address the ball while staring only at the intermediate target closest to my ball. I set down the clubhead and point the face directly at the intermediate target so that it is perpendicular to the target line. At this point my clubhead is set, so I take my stance, assuring that my feet are parallel left of my target line. Then, a couple of waggles, a look at my intermediate target and any other intermediate targets along my intended line, one good look at my ultimate target, eyes back to the ball, and swing away.

The other great thing about the intermediate target close to your ball is that it helps you release the clubhead down your intended target line. Since you can (hopefully) still see the intermediate target with your peripheral vision as you look at your ball, this will allow you to swing the clubhead through the ball and towards the intermediate target with the confidence that it is on the correct line. This process takes a great deal of guesswork out of aiming. If you are not aimed the right direction and your body is aligned incorrectly, you will find that your ball rarely travels close to your intended target.

Finding distinguishable points of reference on the putting green can be more difficult. However, I will still pick out off color blades of grass, or anything along my intended line that I try to 'roll the ball over'.

I highly recommend picking intermediate targets as part of your pre-shot routine for every shot in golf.

Golf tips for seniors

2010-02-22T06:29:00.001-08:00

Golf is one of the only sports that we can play well into our golden years. Unfortunately however, as the body ages we lose flexibility, strength, and some of the coordination we had in our youth. This doesn't mean that you can't improve at golf as a senior, it just means you have to modify your swing and practice regimen accordingly.

Here are some suggestions that I believe will help older golfers get better at the game:

> Stretch

The more you stretch, the more your body will allow you to make a full golf swing that involves the proper shoulder turn, hip turn, release, and follow through. Focus on stretches that involve the shoulders and hips primarily. Although you may find that you might not be able to bring the club back as far as you once did, you will still be able to create the torque necessary to achieve clubhead speed if you stretch regularly. Stretching also elongates and strengthens the muscles. There are books and online videos that specifically show which stretches are the most beneficial for golfers. Go to Google or your local library and do a little research.

> Lift weights

This should be a no-brainer. Lifting weights helps negate the muscle deterioration that comes with getting older. It better prepares us to swing a golf club and make our way around a golf course without fatigue. Obviously, don't overdo it and check with your physician if you have health issues. Again, there are books and online videos that address a weightlifting regimen for senior golfers. Google, YouTube, Library, you see where I'm going with this.

> Switch to more flexible shafts

As our swing speed slows down, we should assure that our clubs have enough flex to maximize power. Senior flex, or "A flex" shafts are recommended, as they are better suited for slower swing speeds. If you are the stubborn type that doesn't believe that your swing has slowed down yet, go to your local driving range and demo a couple "A flex" clubs; you might be surprised at how much further you hit it. Additionally, having a flex that is not compatible to your swing speed can result in the clubhead contacting the ball at the incorrect angle (equating to pulls or pushes). One of the quickest fixes for the most common problem in golf (the slice) can be switching to a softer flex. I recommend seeing a clubfitter if you have any uncertainty.

> Switch to lower compression balls

Similar to flexible shafts, lower compression golf balls help the senior golfer hit the ball further. These balls have a softer core, which will allow for more 'rebound' off the clubface for slower swings. Seek out golf balls that have a compression of 80 or under if you are a senior citizen. These balls also tend to be cheaper than the high compression balls and have a harder, more durable cover (so they last longer).

> Live on the practice green

Lets face it, we're going to lose distance as we get older. So, we should gain as much of an advantage as possible by dialing in our short games. We've all played with the older fellow who only hits it 100 yards off the tee (but straight every time) who manages to get frequent pars due to a deadly accurate putting game. We know that over 50% of golf shots are played on or right around the green, so practicing the heck out of putts and chips will help drop strokes and make up for shorter tee shots.

> Hinge the wrists earlier during the full swing

As we age our body turns less during the swing and the backswing becomes a bit shorter. To compensate for this, I recommend cocking the wrists earlier in the backswing to get more of a whipping motion through the contact area. Set the wrists earlier, then unhinge them quickly just after contact. It would be ideal to continue to use a big shoulder turn on the backswing and fast rotation of the hips on the downswing as the 'primary movements', but at a certain point we should start compensating for decreased mobility by utilizing the hands, wrists, and arms a bit more to achieve distance.

Hopefully these tips help. Have a good time out there!

Simmer down! Having a good time on the course

2010-02-21T06:19:00.000-08:00

How many times have you finished a round of golf and said "I PAID for that misery?" We've all done it, and we've all felt the lingering pain that a poor performance on the course leaves us with. Don't be too hard on yourself, it just means that you're passionate about the game, and expect yourself to play up to your ability (providing you have rational expectations of what your actual ability is). Unfortunately however, this self deprecation stirs up doubt in ourselves and our golf game, and will result in a lack of confidence during your next round.

The key is to have fun out there, and never take the game too seriously. I'm smiling as I write this, because I know how difficult a task this is for those that play golf regularly. I used to be a 'cursing club thrower' who sulked around the course and gave my friends the silent treatment if I was having a bad round. I would become increasingly irritated as the day went on, frustrated and angry at myself and others. This became a self fulfilling prophecy, as the shots got worse and my attitude deteriorated.

Fun huh? Hell no, and also not fun for my playing partners who were just trying to enjoy a nice day outside. It took me awhile to learn to let go of bad shots, but when I finally achieved a certain amount of 'inner peace' that allowed me to do this, the results on and off the course were (and continue to be) quite beneficial. Here are some ideas for having fun on the golf course:

Don't keep score:

There is really no need to keep score if you don't want to. Unless you are playing competitively or are tracking your handicap, you will likely find that you have a much better time out there if you forgo the scorecard. This is especially true for the beginning golfer, as trying to add up all those strokes takes the focus away from swinging the club. There is no shame in this practice, as everyone plays this game for their own reasons.

Loosen up:

Talk to your playing partners. Show genuine interest in their games and congratulate them for well executed shots. This will take your focus off yourself and ease the tension that comes with it. Remember that a round of golf consists of maybe two cumulative minutes of actually swinging the club, so enjoy the in-between times and take in your surroundings. A couple of adult beverages can also help you loosen up (if you are so inclined).

Remember, it's just a game:

When you really think about it, getting mad at ourselves for 'not hitting that little white ball exactly how we wanted to' is pretty silly and childish. It's a strange and fascinating game that has an infinite amount of variables, where no two shots are exactly the same. Golf is also unique in that every course is completely different and offers up new challenges. Enjoy this great game but realize that you can never master it. The second you think you have it figured out you become complacent, and the golf gods will make you pay. The pros do so well because they never get too high or too low, and they remind themselves that they are getting paid to play a game.

Do it for others:

If you find that you simply cannot control your temper and feel the need to throw clubs and yell at yourself, please consider the fact that this behavior ruins not only your day but it also ruins the day for anyone in your vicinity. Tension and anger is contagious, so don't be the one that gets the ball rolling, so to speak. Try to laugh off your bad shots and be consoling to your partners when they hit bad shots. This will not only improve your mood, but it will have positive results in your game (and likely your blood pressure).

So, chill out, and have a great round out there!

Getting started

2010-02-15T07:20:00.000-08:00

Golf is a game that can be extremely intimidating to the new player. The enormous rule book, the need for proper etiquette, the challenge of the game, the touch required for short shots, the strange new golf lingo, all combine to cause a new golfer a great degree of stress (which we know is detrimental to playing good golf). Therefore, it is best to prepare oneself as much as possible during the early learning stages to eliminate stress as much as possible. Here are some tips to ease the process:

> Take a series of lessons from a qualified instructor.

This is the best way to rapidly increase the learning process. No amount of research or watching golf on TV will substitute for one on one instruction with a teaching professional. He or she will guide you through the necessary components of the set-up (grip, alignment, stance, posture, and ball position), and show you the most effective way to practice. They can answer any questions you might have (remember, there are no dumb questions, so don't be afraid to question anything that might be confusing) and recommend proper equipment for your level of play/ age/ etc.

> Read golf books:

Start with basic instruction books then move on to more in-depth ones. There are a plethora of golf instruction books that will assist in the learning process, and also confirm/ reiterate things that your instructor is teaching you. The more that a new golfer can become a 'student of the game', the more knowledge and confidence they will assimilate.

> Practice the short game obsessively:

Get out there and practice your short game (putting, chipping, and pitching) whenever possible. Practicing the short game is really the secret to getting better because when you practice short shots, you are really practicing everything (as short shorts are just short versions of the full swing - and by practicing them you are practicing the most important component of the full swing... the contact point). This will also teach a beginner the 'touch' that is required for short shots and thereby build a great foundation for the full swing. Additionally, practicing the short game is free at most golf courses (on their practice greens by the clubhouse). Even putting or chipping whiffle balls in your living room counts.

Play a lot:

The more you play the more you will experience all the variables that this game of golf has to offer. The more rounds that are played, the more the new golfer will build confidence and get more comfortable with any different scenario. They will learn course management, proper club selection, and what works and what doesn't during a round. I highly recommend a 'playing lesson' with a teaching professional at least once early in the learning process, so that the pro can go over etiquette, rules, course management, etc. They will also get a feel for your tendencies on the course so that you both have a better idea of what you need to focus on during your next lesson.

Use online resources:

There is a vast amount of information available online for new golfers to sift through. Google 'golf for beginners', look at golf instruction videos on YouTube, read golf articles on thousands of different topics, or find some blogs to follow. While this is no substitute for good instruction, it can help reinforce things you are working on and act as a great visual aid.

Most importantly, don't give up! Remember that everyone struggles with this game at first, and the bad shots creep in at every level (just more often for beginners). Just like anything, you will get out of it what you put into it, so get out there and take a lesson this weekend!

The Perfect Swing?

2010-02-06T06:13:00.000-08:00

Here is a secret:

The perfect golf swing does not exist.

Neither does the perfect jump shot, the perfect baseball pitch, or the perfect serve in tennis. This is because everyone has their own, personalized method of executing each of these actions; none of which can be deemed 'perfect'. If you gathered ten PGA Professionals and watched each of them hit a tee shot, then you were asked to pick the 'perfect' swing, you would struggle, because each pro's swing would result in (mostly) the same impressive outcome, albeit with different swing actions. A better phrase would be: 'how to achieve YOUR perfect golf swing', because a person's golf swing is a unique creature that is all their own.

The different ways to swing a golf club are truly infinite. There are 'flat' or 'one plane swingers' (think Cory Pavin or Zach Johnson), there are 'two plane swingers' (Tiger Woods, Fred Couples), there are 'outside in' or 'figure eight' swingers (Jim Furyk, Lee Trevino), and so on. How the club is brought back away from the ball is somewhat irrelevant, as is how the club is brought back down towards the ball. What is important is what path the clubhead is traveling on as it contacts the ball, the clubhead speed generated, and what direction the face of the club is pointing at contact. Much of this depends on what type of shot the golfer is attempting to execute.

Remember that a 'completely straight golf shot' does not exist. There will always be some movement either left to right, or right to left in the air, even if that movement is an inch or two (more often much more than that), it still exists. Therefore, golfers should not attempt to hit 'perfectly straight' shots. They should notice what their tendencies are (do you hit a draw or a fade more often on the range?) and plan, or 'set up' accordingly by either aiming slightly right or slightly left.

Generally speaking, a 'desireable' clubhead path is 'inside-out', or one in which the clubhead is approaching the ball from the left, contacting the ball, and releasing to the right. This puts draw on the ball (providing the face of the clubhead is either square to the target or slightly closed). The more common clubhead path for beginner and high handicap golfers is one that comes from 'outside-in', with an open clubface, resulting in a slice. This is where good instruction comes into play, as fixing a slice is an easier remedy than one might think.

So, the backswing and downswing are somewhat irrelevant (although there are some general checkpoints that are good to be aware of, and the weight shift/ posture/ ball position/ should be somewhat consistent) providing the clubhead is on a good path as it travels through the contact area and the face of the club is pointed in the right direction at contact.

The Real Lessons (#2)

2010-02-05T06:32:00.000-08:00

This is the second article in a series of posts titled: "The Real Lessons", in which I hope to highlight ways we can glean much about life, from golf, and vice-versa. Hopefully we can learn more about ourselves and what we can do to be better people and better golfers.

Mastering the mental game in golf is similar to mastering the mental game of life. This involves letting go of regrets, and staying in the present.

Letting go of regrets:

Just let it go, man. One of the most stressful things in many of our lives is the fact that we can't let go of past mistakes and we live with regret; constantly replaying scenarios and considering how we might have approached them differently. The enormous amounts of stress this regret causes has negative effects on our day to day life and makes it difficult to focus on the task at hand.

The same thing happens during a round of golf. We hit a ball into the woods, hit a tree trying to get out, finally get it on the fairway, hit it into the water, get it on the green and three putt. On the first hole! Then we have to put this catastrophe behind us on the second hole and attempt to move forward with absolute trust in our swing. Not an easy task. The tendency is for the golfer to get extremely heated and obsess about the bad shots, which causes the bad shots to continue (because the ball knows what you're thinking).

It is imperitive in life, and in golf, to forgive yourself and move on without beating yourself up. The only thing we have control over is the next shot (or moment), so buck up and do your best.

Staying in the present:

Allowing the mind to run off all willy nilly during a round of golf will cause the golfer to lose all focus on the shot at hand. One hundred percent of a golfer's attention should be pinpointed directly towards 'what is happening right now'. So many times we start adding up our anticipated score on the third hole after a couple of early birdies, thinking, "oh gee, if I keep this up I'll finish ten under par!" We constantly look at our scorecard and add up imaginary numbers. Big, big mental error. This practice takes all the focus off the shot at hand and puts the golfer in a 'results not process' frame of mind, which is detrimental to good golf.

As in life, rewarding ourselves for successes before a job is completed; or beating ourselves up for failures that can still be reversed, will not do us any good. We can set goals, and should, but there is no shortcut for getting the work done step-by-step, with our minds intent on the process of the task and not the future result.

Light grip for putts and chips

2010-01-28T15:32:00.001-08:00

Shots that are on or around the green do not require power, they require touch. Therefore, the golfer should grip the club very lightly for putts and chips because increased grip pressure decreases feel and inhibits a natural swinging motion. The golfer should have the sense that they are gripping the club lightly enough to actually 'feel' the clubhead contact the ball.

Remember that grip pressure should remain consistent for the entire stroke. Many beginners and high handicappers have a tendency to grip the club with more pressure as it approaches the ball on the downswing in an effort to control the shot. Trying to control or manipulate the club in this fashion is an 'anti-touch' move, resulting in many fat, thin, and muffed shots around the green, and poor distance control while putting.

I do recommend that the golfer grip the club with a bit more pressure in the left hand than the right (for right-hand golfers). The left hand is the 'control' hand and the right hand is the 'power' hand, so it thereby makes sense to add control and decrease power. Another danger in gripping too hard with the right hand is the dreaded 'flip' shot in which the right hand unhinges through impact, breaking down and flipping (or 'scooping') the club at the ball rather than lagging it through. This is the number one reason for failed chip and pitch shots around the green, because the club does not stay square through impact for nearly as long as a lagging motion that is achieved by keeping the wrists firm through contact.

A good way to get a sense of how much grip pressure should be used for putts and chips is to hold the club so that she shaft is vertical with the clubhead in the air. Hold the club just firmly enough so that it does not slip out of your hands (about a five on a scale from one to ten). Then, increase the grip pressure in the left hand just slightly. Try to maintain this same pressure as you address your ball and throughout the entire stroke.

Think of feeling the weight of the clubhead throughout the stroke. If you ever lose the feel for where the clubhead is, then you are gripping too tight. Get out of your own way and let the club swing back and through rather than trying to guide or manipulate it.

We Talkin' 'Bout Practice (and how it differs from playing)

2010-01-28T07:33:00.001-08:00

Practicing Golf and Playing Golf are completely different animals, and should be approached with totally different mindsets. Trying to mimic a practice session during a round is detrimental to good play, and trying to mimic a round during a practice session will hinder the learning process.

Practicing:

The driving range and practice putting green are the places to tinker with your swing and make adjustments. Feel free to analyze different components of the swing and try new ways of doing things to test their effectiveness. Practice with purpose, and think about how one action changes another action.

I practice two different ways. One way is to try and shape shots different directions (hook, slice, fade, draw, knockdown, punch, lofted shots, etc.), even hitting extreme hooks and slices just to get the feel for spinning a ball off the clubface to get it to curve a particular direction. Practicing in this manner teaches the golfer how to build an arsenal of shots that will come in handy in many situations on the course. Simply attempting to hit straight shot after straight shot will not only be quite defeating (as no ball really ever flies completely straight), but there is very little to learn from this technique. This method of attempting to shape shots and be creative with practice sessions is the most common for me.

The other way to practice at the range is a bit more similar to playing, but not quite the same. I'll take a bucket and just hit balls without thinking of shaping it one way or the other, or in other words, just swinging the club as naturally as possible. I will be very aware, however, of what the ball is doing in the air. I'll make mental notes on how many shots are drawing, how many are fading, how many I'm getting thin or fat, etc. This teaches me a great deal about my natural tendencies so that when I get to the course I have more of an idea about what my ball is going to do in the air.

Playing:

When you get out to the course, all swing thoughts must be eliminated, all analysis and adjustments put out of the mind, and all trust put in the natural golf swing. Trying to tinker with a golf swing during a round is a recipe for disaster, as this greatly decreases the confidence level of the golfer and thereby decreases the likelihood of a good shot.

If you must have a swing thought, have it be something like 'smooth tempo', or 'slow down'. The golfer must focus on staying relaxed and in the present moment. Visualize the shot you want to hit, based upon the tendencies you've noticed on the driving range or prior shots during rounds, and focus on the process and not the result.

The Real Lessons (#1)

2010-01-27T07:18:00.000-08:00

As you've probably heard others more poetically pontificate; golf and life have many parallels. If you play this game for any significant amount of time this truth becomes quite evident. If you can distinguish between these similarities and be very honest with yourself, you can make yourself a better golfer and better person concurrently.

This is the first article in a series of posts titled: "The Real Lessons", in which I hope to highlight ways we can glean much about life, from golf, and vice-versa. Hopefully we can learn more about ourselves and what we can do to be better people and better golfers.

Be Brave.

Simply taking up the game of golf takes great courage. It is (in my opinion) the most difficult sport (or 'game' depending upon your take) that exists on this great sphere we call Earth.

We are required to swing a long stick with a tiny protrusion around our body and at a tiny little ball, striking it precisely in the middle of the club-face at just the right angle, then propel it extraordinary distances towards a specific target. The margin for error is minute. It is a game not just of inches but fractions of millimeters, where the smallest variable can re-route the entire ball flight (or render it non-existent).

Once we do manage to get that tiny ball on the green, we are then required to play an entirely different game where the goal is to putt the ball into the hole with pin-point accuracy and touch. Since the putting stroke is so different than any other golf stroke, it really is a game within a game; and thereby increases the complexity and difficulty of golf.

So, executing a decent golf shot takes an extreme amount of self confidence given the likelihood of disaster. We must 'quell the demon voices' that ring through our heads trying to convince us that we will not succeed. Mind over matter has never been more appropriate.

The beginning golfer experiences a large degree of failure, and a small amount of success. It takes a certain kind of drive to continue on with this game and persevere with the courage and confidence that things will get better. This is similar to life, when everything that is 'new' and 'challenging' is kind of uncomfortable and sometimes embarrassing. If you can see even a fragment of silver lining, or something to build on, and power through with your head held high, any challenge can be conquered.

The Sand, Man

2010-01-26T06:57:00.000-08:00

The bunker (sand) shot is the one and only shot in golf where the goal is to miss the ball.

Let me explain.

In order to effectively get a ball out of the sand, the golfer must propel the clubhead into the sand under the ball and send the sand towards the intended target. The ball will travel with the sand (if the shot is executed properly). Many beginning golfers struggle with this concept because it seems like a bizarre notion to 'miss' the ball, but this is really the only way to play a sand shot.

The first thing to do when your ball ends up in a greenside bunker is determine how deep the ball is sitting in the sand. The more ball that is showing, the better, because the shot will be easier. If the ball is buried in the sand you will have to swing the club much faster and hit further under the ball.

Remember that it is against the rules to take a practice swing in the sand (unless your practice swing merely swings through the air above the sand - it is illegal to touch the club to the sand before the shot). So, approach the ball, take a very open stance with your body facing the target, and wiggle your feet around until they sink an inch or two into the sand (not only for stability but also because you want your swing to bottom out lower than a normal golf shot, so you set your body lower). Open up the clubface of your most lofted club (I use a sixty degree sand wedge), you want to use the 'bounce' on the bottom of the wedge to drive the club down and through the shot.

Play the shot in the middle of your stance, pick a spot in the sand a couple of inches behind the ball, take a very 'steep' takeaway (think 'straight up' instead of 'around your body') and hinge the wrists earlier than you would for a normal golf shot. As you bring the club down into the sand, use a lot of hand/ wrist motion at the moment of impact to assure that the club-head travels through the sand aggressively. This is not a time to be timid, the shot must be struck with authority.

Think of 'throwing' about a cup of sand onto the green towards your target. The ball will go where the sand goes. Finish with the club high and turn towards your target as you would for any golf shot.

Sometimes the biggest challenge is finding a place to practice this shot, as not many golf courses have a practice area that includes a sand trap. If you have one in your town, take advantage of it!

Lag = Power

2010-01-25T06:05:00.000-08:00

Lag in a golf swing equates to the delayed release of the club-head to maximize power and efficiency. During the downswing, if the wrists remain hinged and the hands remain ahead of the club-head for a longer period of time, the effect will be similar to the cracking of a whip through contact, with the club-head releasing forcefully through the ball and sending that little dimpled son-of-a-gun into the stratosphere. This is the real secret to achieving more distance.

Here is how to get more lag in your golf swing:

Take the driver out of your bag. Turn the club upside-down so that you are holding the club-head and the grip is facing the ground. Take your normal grip just under the club-head and pretend like the end of your grip is the actual club-head. Take a few swings, and listen for a 'whooshing' noise. This noise occurs at the moment when the club is traveling at the fastest speed. Ideally, we want to hear that noise at the exact moment when the face of the club-head should contact the ball, and not beforehand. Generally speaking, more novice golfers will hear the 'whoosh' too soon.

If the 'whoosh' noise occurs too soon, like around the time when the shaft of the club is traveling past your right knee, or somewhere thereabouts, then you are releasing the club too soon (or "casting" the club as it's commonly referred to). This over the top move is so common because the average golfer has a tendency to grip the club too hard at the top of the swing and try to rush it down with the arms and hands rather than letting it come down naturally as it should.

So, take two tees and place one right where the ball would normally be, and put the other about a foot ahead of it. Practice the 'whooshing' drill and try to get the 'whoosh' to occur right between the tees. When this happens the hips have time to clear out of the way and the body weight has time to shift over to the left side of the body (for right handers), which guides the club head through the contact area much faster.

Remember, it is not the arms and hands that create power in the golf swing. Rather it is the uncoiling motion of the upper body coupled with a powerful weight transfer to the left side in which the right hip fires through as it rotates. When this happens the proper lag is achieved by the body motion leading the arms and club down and through, instead of the opposite.

Other drills to help incorporate more lag in your golf swing include; practicing golf swings with your left arm only (as it's the right arm/ hand that tend to be the culprit when releasing the club too early - this drill builds up the golf muscles of the left arm and trains the golfer to be more dominant with the left side), and practicing chip shots (as the wrists should never break down or come unhinged during the typical chip shot - this drill teaches the golfer to 'hold on' for longer and delay the release of the club-head).

Good luck and have fun reaping the benefits of added lag!

Winter Lesson Special

2010-01-21T14:26:00.000-08:00

Hello and Happy 2010!!

As this year gets underway and the weather begins to improve, you may find the desire to dust off the golf clubs and tune up your game. This is a great time of year to play because you don't need a tee time at most places and you can play at your own pace. Many courses also offer generous discounts on greens fees during the winter.

I am now teaching exclusively at King City Golf Course (right by Tigard on hwy. 99) and am offering $10 off 1/2 hr. lessons through the end of March ($25 instead of $35) - please mention this post to receive your discount.

As always, I do not charge extra for multiple students (up to 3), so if you get a couple of friends or family members together then the cost can be split amongst your group. I specialize in lessons for beginners but all are welcome. Even expert golfers need to review the fundamentals once in awhile!

Playing lessons and group lessons are also available. Please feel free to email me with any inquiries or if you'd like to set up a lesson time.

Thank you!

Jeff Mount
USGTF Golf Teaching Professional
King City Golf Course
503 577 8807
djm8181@yahoo.com

How to build a repeatable golf swing

2010-01-02T14:42:00.001-08:00

After a new golfer learns how to swing a club reasonably well (getting it on a good plane/ proper weight shift/ proper release of the club, etc.), they will find that the biggest challenge becomes making good contact with the ball on a regular basis. Getting the clubhead to contact the ball right on the sweet spot at the exactly right moment is not something that comes easily for most beginning golfers, regardless of how pure their swing looks or feels (and it's no wonder, there is very little margin for error, especially with the less lofted clubs).

The clubhead must not only navigate the perfect path through the contact area, but it must also contact the ball at the appropriate moment during the downswing (excluding the driver which we hit slightly on the upswing). Additionally, the face of the clubhead must be perpendicular to the target line at the moment of contact. Timing is crucial.

Most of us that have been golfing for awhile got a good feel for 'solid contact' simply by hitting thousands and thousands of range balls and playing hundreds of rounds of golf; thereby getting the feedback we needed to groove a repeatable swing. This can be an incredibly frustrating way to learn the game because in the beginning the bad shots outweigh the good ones disproportionately. One starts to get discouraged quickly, especially considering how expensive range balls and rounds of golf are. It's no wonder that so many people give up the game (or just stick to Wii golf). Fortunately, there is an easier and faster way.

First of all, if you've never played golf, or you really don't know the fundamentals, you need a series of lessons in my opinion. The setup needs to be in place before moving forward (proper grip, alignment, stance, posture, and ball position), and then you need to learn how to properly swing a golf club (getting the club on the correct plane/ making a good shoulder turn/ firing the hips/ keeping the head and spine still/ getting the body weight to the left side of the body on the downswing, etc.). You could learn these things on your own, but it's gonna take awhile! I think it's well worth the money to have an instructor guide you at first just to get down the basics. After a comfort level with the basics is achieved then the challenge becomes building a repeatable swing that gets the sweet spot of the clubhead on the ball and traveling through the ball on the right path.

Here's the drill for accelerating the process of building a repeatable swing:

Find a lawn or park where you can make a full swing with a golf club. Place two golf tees in the ground about 8 inches apart (white or yellow tees work best for this because they stand out). Take a pitching wedge, and swing the club so that the clubhead brushes the grass between the tees. As you do this, make sure that the clubhead brushes the grass *right between the tees* and not before or after the tees. That's it! By doing this over and over, you will build a repeatable swing that will help you hit golf balls on the sweet spot of the clubhead, and at the correct moment of the downswing, more consistently (best of all, it's free, no golf ball or golf course required).

As you improve with this drill and find that the clubhead of the pitching wedge is brushing the grass right between the tees every time, then move the tees closer together and try and get the clubhead to travel through a narrower gate (and so on and so on until the tees are so close together that the clubhead will barely get through without hitting either tee). Then, start moving towards the less lofted clubs in the bag, ending with the driver (repeating the same process with the tees).

This drill really requires that you pay attention to what's going on. If you notice that your tendency is to brush the grass well after the tees, then you probably have an issue with topping the ball. If you brush the grass before the tees, then you probably hit the ball fat more often than not. If you notice that your clubhead regularly hits the tee furthest away from you, then you likely stand too close to the ball. If you hit the closer one regularly, you stand too far away.

Also, be conscious of the path that the clubhead is traveling on as it brushes the grass between the tees. If the 'brush' of the grass points excessively to the left, you are probably either pulling or slicing across the ball. If it points excessively right then you are pushing or hooking the ball. The goal is to get the 'brush' going straight at the intended target. Noticing the direction of the 'brush of the grass' may sound difficult, but it's really not if you keep your eyes down after the clubhead moves through the grass (which also helps with keeping the head still until well after contact, also incredibly important).

The more you do this drill, the quicker you groove a repeatable golf swing. Good luck and have fun!

Drills to help you chip better

2009-04-14T11:17:00.001-07:00

The chip shot is usually over-analyzed, causing golfers to freeze up over the ball and second guess themselves or their chipping technique. Remember that the chip shot is simply a short version of the full swing. We swing the club back, then accellerate down and through. Simple, right? Well, it should be, but unfortunately golfers often grip the club too tight due to being too tense or trying to force the issue, resulting in deceleration or flipping at the ball and fat or thin shots.

The following drills will help free up your form so that this shot becomes easier:

Line em' up:

Line up six or seven balls a few feet off the green, about four inches apart. Take the club you usually hit chip shots with (a fifty-four degree wedge for me). Now pick any arbitrary spot on the green, take a good look at it, and tell yourself that that is your general target area. Then, hit each ball towards that target with a VERY light grip, walking down the line and letting the club brush back and forth as you hit each ball. The club should never stop moving and you should not even look at where the balls are going, just keep the eyes down on the balls.

It is important that the clubhead never stop moving. In other words, hit the first ball, allow the clubhead to swing back and brush the grass before stepping slightly forward to hit the next ball. The point of this drill is to: A) give the golfer a feel for letting the club do the work and not forceing or manipulating it and B) keep the golfer's eyes down until after contact. Remember to keep the same light grip pressure throughout the drill (this also helps the golfer to learn to let the clubhead accellerate through the ball and not decellerate).

With a little work, you will usually find that after you have hit all the balls in the line, when you look up all those balls will be in about the same area on the green, providing you contacted them reasonably well.

Left hand only:

Chip balls using just your left hand. This will help you learn to hit the ball on a decending arc, and teach you to be more left hand dominant on chips and pitches (as the right hand/ arm has a tenedency to take over and cause the dreaded flipping motion at the ball).

Grip touching left wrist:

Choke down on your grip so that the hands are on the bottom of the grip (the best method for chip shots incidentally). Angle your wrists so that the hands are ahead of the clubhead (clubhead by your back foot, hands by your front hip. Do this to the point that the top of your grip is touching your left wrist. Now, hit some chip shots and try to keep the grip touching the left wrist throughout the entire stroke. If the grip separates from the wrist, this means that you are 'flipping' at the ball and need to work on getting more 'left hand dominance' in the stroke. You may find that physically wrapping a velcro strap or large rubber band around your grip and left wrist helps.

Think of the shaft of the club as being an extension of the left arm on chip shots.

Thoughts on the full swing

2009-03-05T10:48:00.001-08:00

Everybody has a unique swing that is all their own. I don't like to try and change anyone's swing too drastically, but there are certain 'checkpoints' that I believe are fundamental to the full swing that golfers should be aware of. The following bulletpoint analysis consists of my thoughts and opinions concerning how the full swing should be executed:

> First and foremost, the golfer must set up properly. Grip, alignment, stance, posture, and ball position are the elements of the set-up that must be in place before the swing even begins.

> Secondly, remember that the type of swing we make depends on the club in our hands. A full swing with a sand wedge will differ significantly from the full swing with a driver. Let's assume for the sake of this article that we're using a seven iron.

> After the golfer has addressed the ball with the correct set-up components in place, it is important to 'remain loose' over the ball before making the swing. Waggle the club, flex and unflex the knees slightly and keep the arms and hands loose and limber and ready to make an athletic move. I like to look down the target line as I waggle the club and envision the shot I am hoping to achieve. Not moving around, or 'freezing' at address will only cause tension and restrict a free movement.

> The best way to get momentum going one direction is to begin by making a subtle movement in the opposite direction. This is called the 'forward press' and I believe it's a good idea to impliment. Harvey Penick uses the analogy of a bucket of water in your hands. If you were to bring it straight back as you would a golf club, you would shift it forward just barely right before the movement back in order to get the momentum going. The same is true of a golf club. I tilt the grip forward very subtlely just before bringing the club back (a bit more pronounced with the longer clubs). You have to look pretty hard to even notice it.

> I believe in the 'one piece takeaway'. That is, the only movement initially on the takeaway is a rotation of the shoulders which causes the chest and arms to come back. There should be no immediate cocking of the wrists or hand rotation until the clubhead comes past the rear foot. If you envision the triangle that is formed by the chest and arms at address (and remember that the arms should be kept close to each other at set-up and during the swing), picture simply moving the triangle to the right as you would for a chip shot.

> After the clubhead comes past the rear foot, begin to fan the clubface open so that when the shaft of the club is parallel to the ground on the backswing the toe of the clubhead is pointing straight up in the air (this is true with any club besides the putter). When the club is in this position, the shaft should be parallel to the target line and the body line. It should also be between the target line and body line, with the butt end of the club pointing just left of the intended target.

> The body weight should follow the direction of the club on the backswing. That is, as the club comes back, the body weight should begin to load up on the right side of the body. Remember to pivot on to the right leg, don't 'sway' away from the ball. Swaying moves the head and spine away from the ball, which is a swing killer.

> The next movement after the 'parallel to the ground position' on the backswing is to get into the 'L' position. Simply cock the wrists so that the thumbs come up and point upwards. Remember that when cocking the wrists, they should hinge 'up' and never side to side. The left arm should be kept relatively straight, but not rigid. When the left arm is parallel to the ground on the backswing, an 'L' is formed with the left arm and shaft of the club. The butt end of the club should point towards the ball along the target line and more weight should have shifted to the right side as a result of the club moving back. If the left heel begins to come up as a result of the weight transfer, that's ok; just don't try to force it up.

> At this point (the 'L' position on the backswing), the golfer's left shoulder should be just left of, and under, the chin. The hips should have turned away from the target about twenty degrees (much less than the shoulders turn), and the left arm should be parallel to the target line and body line (which is a considerably more upright takeaway than many beginners take, as they attempt to bring the club too far inside the target line on the way back).

> From the 'L' position, the golfer should begin to bring the club inside the target line back around the body (more so for a longer club, less for a more lofted club). They should bring the club as far back as they can while still maintaining a fairly straight left arm, but not so far back that the shaft of the club goes past parallel (to the ground). If the club is brought back to parallel then it should again be parallel to the target line and body line. However, it is not necessary to bring the club back this far and at all costs the golfer should not force a bigger backswing than they're comfortable with (a shorter backswing actually creates more torque and clubhead speed anyway).

> At the top of the backswing (or, the 'transition point'), the thumb of the left hand should be directly under, and supporting, the grip. The wrists should be fully hinged and about seventy percent of the golfer's body weight should have loaded up on the right side. At this point the golfer should be looking directly over their left shoulder.

> There is a feeling of 'weightlessness' when the club is in the transition point. Resist the urge to grip tighter at the top and do not force the club down with the arms. The first move from the top should be a transfer of weight to the left foot, then a feeling of body weight moving into the left leg, then a clearing of the hips towards the target. The arms and club should simply fall down as a result of the uncoiling motion as the hips clear and body weight transfers.

> The checkpoints on the backswing remain true on the downswing, if not just inside the target line with relation to where the club was on the backswing (you want to come a little bit 'inside the target line' on the way down in order to release the club just 'outside the target line' after impact).

> Resist 'flipping' the clubhead at the ball at impact. Rather, delay the unhinging of the wrists and let the clubhead release just after impact. This delay will help the clubhead 'lag' through the contact area and keep the clubhead square for a longer period of time.

> At contact, the hands should be slightly ahead of the clubhead and the hips should have cleared about forty-five degrees towards the target. The right heel should begin to come up as the body weight transfers dramatically onto the left side.

> Keep the eyes down until after the clubhead releases towards the target. Look for the spot where the ball was before it was hit before looking at where it is going. Release the clubhead down the target line, making sure the right hand is rolling over the left hand at impact.

> Let the 'triangle' that is formed by the chest and arms move to the left without bending either arm during the release. Allow the centrifigul force to carry down and through and commit to keeping the clubhead traveling down the target line until the shaft of the club gets back to the 'parallel to the ground' position on the follow through.

> At this point (shaft parallel to the ground on the follow through), the toe of the club should again point directly up in the air (this is the indication that a full release has been made) and the club should again be parallel to the target line and body line and pointing just left of the intended target.

> As the golfer follows through and brings the club back up, the right shoulder should bring the head up and the golfer should begin to stand a little straighter as they turn to face the target. They will feel a good amount of torque on their left leg as the body tries to turn around it.

> At the finish, the belt-buckle, chest, and hat brim should all face directly at the intended target with about ninety percent of the body weight having transferred to the left side. The right heel will have come all the way up and the golfer will be balancing on their right toe. The shaft of the club should (ideally) touch the back of the neck. Hold the finish until the ball lands (for balance).

Correct Posture

2009-03-03T15:10:00.001-08:00

Correct posture is something that few golfers seem to pay much attention to. Many seem overly hunched over the ball or squatting excessively with too much knee bend and too little bend at the waist.

Golfers are often told to "keep the head down" as they set up to the ball. This is quite possibly the worst golf tip in the history of golf instruction. When someone hears "keep your head down" they almost always lower their head so that the chin is touching the chest. As they swing the club back the chin restricts the shoulder turn that is necessary for a full swing. Consequently, they are forced to either move their head up and out of the way to allow the left shoulder to turn back (which throws the swing off plane and makes good contact nearly impossible), or they simply stop turning their shoulders and swing with too much arm movement (resulting in an over the top move which equates to a slice or a pull).

Rather than telling my students to keep their head down, I ask that they keep their chin higher to allow for a full shoulder turn, and keep their eyes down on the ball (until after contact). This helps to keep the head stationary throughout the swing and results in better contact and a full shoulder turn back and through. Our head and spine are the axis that we turn around to swing the club, so it is very important to keep them still throughout (as we follow through towards the finish it's ok to bring the head up as it turns towards the target).

Very little knee bend is required when setting up (maybe two inches total). The golfer should bend close to forty five degrees towards the ball while maintaining a very straight spine angle. The rear end should feel like it's pushing out just a tad, which will lend to a straighter spine at address.

One should feel like they are in an athletic position during the set up. That is, keep the weight a bit more towards the balls of the feet than the heels (although both feet should be flat on the ground at address with weight distributed fifty percent left foot - fifty percent right foot for most shots). If the posture is correct then the golfer will feel a bit of tension, or stretching in their thighs as they set up to the ball.

There is a good method to check that you have correct posture. Take a seven iron and grab the clubhead with your right hand, bringing it around your back so that the clubhead is touching the very back of your belt. Adjust the shaft of the club so that it is pointing straight up your spine (the whole shaft should be touching the spine), and have the grip touch the back of your head. Now, bend over almost forty five degrees and flex the knees a couple of inches. Then, simply grab the grip of the club with the left hand and bring the clubhead back down to the ground without moving any body parts. This is what correct posture should feel like; chin up, eyes down, spine straight, arms hanging down naturally, rear end sticking out just a bit, knees slightly bent, weight predominantly on the thighs and balls of the feet.

The stance should be about shoulder width for most shots. A little more narrow for shots that require more precision (chips, pitches, very lofted clubs), and a bit wider for shots that require more balance (long irons, fairway woods, and driver).

Ball Position

2009-02-27T10:17:00.000-08:00

The golf ball should not be placed in the same spot for every shot. Certain shots require the ball to be further back in the stance (closer to the back foot), and other shots call for the ball being placed further forward in the stance (closer to the front foot).

Let's start with the shot that requires the ball to be played the furthest back in the stance: the chip shot. I believe this shot should be played with the ball just inside the right heel, or instep. Given the importance of hitting down on the ball for a chip, playing the ball back gives the golfer added insurance of catching the ball with the clubhead before the turf. Additionally, the chip shot should be a low, running shot, and when the ball is played back the club is slightly de-lofted, which encourages a lower trajectory.

For full swings, the more loft on the club, the further back the ball should be played. However, the ball should never be played much further back than the middle of the stance. For a full swing with a sand wedge, I do like to play the ball just slightly right of center of the stance because this calls for such a steep swing with an emphatic descending blow.

As loft begins to decrease with the longer irons, the ball should be played further forward toward the front foot. I believe that the ball should be moved approximately 1 - 2 inches forward for each club as loft decreases (culminating in the driver which should be played just inside the left heel). This is due to the fact that as loft decreases, the golfer should hit down a bit less on the ball and use more of a 'sweeping' motion. Remember that our address position as we set up should closely mimic our intended 'contact' position.

Think about the physics of the golf swing. With a sand wedge or more lofted club, the shaft is shorter so we are swinging on a smaller arc than a long iron or wood. Therefore we want the swing to 'bottom out' on its arc closer to where the ball is with the longer irons, and well after the ball for the shorter irons (this is why it's good to take a divot when hitting lofted irons; which is indicative of catching the ball on a descending blow and having the clubhead bottom out well after contact under the turf). The divot should become more shallow as loft decreases and there should not be a divot at all for longer irons and fairway woods.

The driver is played off the left heel because it is the one club that we want to hit just slightly on the upswing. The clubhead actually bottoms out on its arc just before contact.

When a 'flop shot' is necessary (and this should should only be attempted when absolutely necessary due to the high difficulty level), the ball should be placed just forward of center of the stance. The amount of height required for the flop shot in question should dictate how far forward to play the ball. However, remember that you still need to hit down slightly on the ball in order to get the proper trajectory on the ball. In other words, trust the loft of the club to get the ball in the air, don't try to 'help' it into the air as this will cause the dreaded flipping motion that usually translates to fat or thin shots.

For putts, play the ball ever so slightly forward of the center of your stance. This will help get the ball rolling true (if it is too far back then it can sort of 'bounce' up initially rather than a pure roll).

Adhere to these tips on ball position and watch those scores drop!

The Aim Game

2009-02-26T13:55:00.000-08:00

Next to the grip, alignment (or aim) is the most important aspect of the set-up. I can think of few other ways to quickly get better than learning and implementing proper alignment. So many golfers step up to their ball, peer down the fairway briefly, and wail away without much regard for where they are aiming. Taking the moment to properly align oneself over every shot is a great habit to get into.

I was taught to use the 'train track method of alignment', and I suggest that all my students use it as well. The theory behind this is that the foot line represents the left train track and the target line represents the right train track. The imaginary tracks extend to the target, parallel to each other and never intersect.

The first step is to determine the 'target line'. This is best achieved by standing at least ten feet behind the ball, and holding up the golf club so that both the ball and the target can be seen along the line of the shaft. To expand on this; take whatever club is in your hands, stand behind your ball ten feet or so, raise the club up so that the clubhead is in the air (higher than the grip), look through your dominant eye and line up the ball and the target along the shaft of the club (note: if you're not sure which eye is dominant, hold up your hand so that it blocks an object in the distance - then close one eye. Did your hand appear to move? If so, the other eye is your dominant eye). Now, you've established your target line.

The next step is to pick an intermediate target very close to your ball (a bark chip, a divot, etc) along the target line. The intermediate target should be a foot or two in front of your ball. Now, you don't really have to worry about your ultimate target, because you know that the intermediate target is along the same line.

Next, line up your clubface so that it is perpendicular to the intermediate target you've chosen. If there were a quarter sized magnet on your clubface with a straight arrow extending away from it, then the arrow would be pointing straight at the intermediate target.

The next step is to set your feet so that your 'foot line' is parallel to your 'target line' (the foot line is determined by setting a club on the ground so that the shaft touches the front of your feet - you can also just hold the club in front of you so that the shaft is along the outside of your feet). Look at where the club is pointing as you determine your foot line. It should be pointing just left of your intended target. Again, the foot line represents the left train track and the target line represents the right train track; the two imaginary lines extending toward the target and never intersecting.

As you set up to the ball, assure that not only the foot line is parallel to the target line, but also the shoulder line, knee line, and eye line are all parallel. The back of the left hand should face the target, as should the palm of the right hand. Notice the intermediate target in the peripheral vision and keep in mind that it is along your intended target line.

Using this method for aiming allows the golfer to swing along their body line without deviation and instills a tremendous amount of confidence. As the golfer hits the ball and releases their club down the target line, the intermediate target again becomes a useful tool, as it can be a point of reference for the 'release' (allowing the clubhead to release toward the intermediate target and along the target line).

The 'train track method of alignment' can, and should be, used on every shot from putting to driving.

Spin It To Win It

2009-02-19T08:11:00.000-08:00

A beginning golfer should focus initially on achieving solid contact with the ball on a regular basis (catching the ball flush off the clubface and getting the ball air born). After the golfer feels confident with good, consistent contact and trajectory (which can take a significant amount of time), they should begin to think about 'spin', and what causes it.

First of all, there are three types of spin that can be put on a golf ball; backspin, clockwise (slice) spin, and counterclockwise (hook) spin. If you put topspin on the ball then you are probably doing something wrong!

All golf shots have backspin. It is backspin that allows the ball to climb high in the air when hit it. The more one hits down on a ball, the more backspin is achieved. Since we hit down on the ball more with our more lofted clubs, these clubs cause the ball to have more backspin (sand wedge = the most backspin; driver = the least backspin). The golfers on the PGA tour get so much backspin on their balls because they hit down so aggressively with their lofted clubs and they take big divots. The average golfer does not hit down on the ball enough and get the clubhead down into the turf after contact (with lofted clubs), therefore they do not get backspin on the greens.

As loft decreases and clubs get longer, there begins to be more sidespin and less backspin (as loft negates sidespin). Therefore, it is all the more critical with the longer irons and woods to keep the clubhead square through contact (otherwise, we put too much sidespin on the ball and it careens left or right). Given that it is almost impossible to hit a ball perfectly straight, without sidespin (especially with longer clubs), it's imperative that we understand what creates sidespin and how we can begin to control it.

Clockwise (slice) spin is created by the clubface 'swiping' across the ball from the right to left. In other words, as the clubhead comes down towards the ball, if it approaches the ball from the right of the target line and then moves to the left of the target line after contact, slice spin will be imparted on the ball (providing the clubface is square to the target line).

Adversely, counterclockwise (hook) spin is created by the clubface 'swiping' across the ball from the left to right. And, as the clubhead comes down towards the ball, if it approaches the ball from the left of the target line and then moves to the right of the target line after contact, hook spin will be imparted on the ball (providing the clubface is square to the target line).

It is more natural for beginning golfers to slice, because they are more comfortable bringing the club down in front of the body, where they can see it, as opposed to bringing the club down from behind the body where it feels foreign. They can get away with this with the more lofted clubs because there is very little sidespin imparted on the ball, but when they start trying the same swing with less lofted clubs, then the slice spin really takes over.

I think golfers should experiment often with ball flight, and try to get the ball to spin both ways so that they know what the sensation feels like. The more they understand what causes the ball to hook or slice the more they learn how to control their ball flight.

Tips for hitting long irons

2009-02-12T13:29:00.000-08:00

Many have abandoned the long irons in favor of the hybrid clubs. There is nothing wrong with this, and if you find that the hybrid is easier for you to hit then by all means get the long irons out of the bag. However, I think the long irons are easier to control once you get the hang of them, so I still use the three and four irons rather than a hybrid (hybrid clubs have always seemed awkward to me as well).

The swing with the long iron is different than that of a more lofted club. Here are some tips to help you hit them better (these tips would also apply to hybrid clubs):

> Play the ball further forward in your stance.
The goal is not to hit down steeply on the ball. Rather, you want the clubhead to contact the ball closer to the bottom of the swing arc and sweep through the contact zone. So, play the ball more towards your front foot, as you would with a fairway wood.

>Take the clubhead back on a shallow arc to begin the backswing.
Due to a longer iron being a longer club, a wider arc must be generated in order to achieve the desired swing plane. A backswing with a lofted club would be much steeper, and would come almost straight up away from the ball as opposed to a shallow arc. Think 'slow and low' for the take-away.

> Slow down the tempo slightly.
The long iron swing travels a further distance than that of a short iron swing (because it is a longer club traveling on a wider arc). Therefore, it takes more time to make a long iron swing. Slow down the tempo a bit for the best results.

> Swing on a flatter plane around your body.
Since the angle of the shaft at address with a long iron is on a flatter plane than that of a shorter iron, one must maintain that flatter angle throughout the swing to keep it on plane. Think of swinging around the back of your body a bit more than straight back like you would with a lofted club.

> Don't rush the downswing.
There is a tendency to try and hit the long iron's harder. Resist this and start down slow and smooth to prevent casting the club and slicing across it. Make sure your right elbow brushes by your body as it comes down from the top (this will assure the plane of the club is flat enough as the clubhead approaches the ball).

> Let your body weight transfer to the left side on the downswing.
People try to 'help' the ball in the air with long irons because they don't trust the loft of the club to do the heavy lifting. Realize that there is plenty of loft in the club to get it airborne, so you don't need to try to scoop or help the ball into the air (which results in a reverse pivot or hanging back on the right side).

> Focus on solid contact.
Make sure you contact the ball on the sweet spot of the club face at the bottom of the swing arc (and on a shallow enough plane). Assure the toe and heel of the club are coming through the contact zone at the same time, and then continuing down the target line after contact.

> Hold your finish.
If you lose your balance and cannot hold your finish after your follow through, then you've tried to swing your long iron too hard. Slow it down and make sure you keep your balance throughout the swing.

Try these tips on the range and see if you get better results with those longer irons.

Dealing with a bad lie

2009-02-11T06:08:00.000-08:00

There are few things more frustrating than hitting what you think is a perfect drive, only to find your ball embedded in a divot in the fairway. Don't lose hope, this shot can be pulled off if you know how to play it. When we encounter a bad lie in a divot or find the ball sitting down in the rough, there are certain actions that can be taken to insure we give ourselves the best chance of success for our next shot.

Play the ball further back in your stance.

In order to assure that you hit the ball on a descending blow and catch the ball before the turf, play the ball further towards your back foot than you would for a normal approach shot. This will give you the best chance for solid contact out of a bad lie.

Choke down on the club.

It is always easier to hit a ball with a shorter club. Therefore, choke down on your grip a couple of inches as you prepare to hit your approach out of a tough lie.

Take one more club than you usually would.

Chances are you're going to be hitting more of a 'punch' shot out of a bad lie (finishing the follow through low with very little breaking of the wrists). This shot requires that you take one or two more clubs than usual because it is not a full swing.

Make sure you hit down on the ball aggressively.

It is imperative to hit the ball on a steep descending blow out of a bad lie. This is the only way to make sure the ball gets airborne (as you must hit down on a ball to get it to go up). If you are in the rough then abide by the following law: the deeper the ball is sitting down in the grass the further back in your stance and the more you must hit down on it on a steep plane to get it out of the junk.

Don't let your wrists break through the contact area.

If you try to 'flip' at the ball to get it out of a bad lie you will lose the powerful lag motion that is imperative when hitting out of a bad lie. Let your wrists remain firm as the club travels down and through the ball and follow through aggressively and with confidence.

Clear your hips quickly to begin the downswing.

The more clubhead speed you can generate on the downswing the better. As we know, clubhead speed is generated by the clearing of the hips. So, make sure you make a good, quick, hip turn to begin the downswing in order to get the clubhead speed necessary for getting a ball out of a bad lie.

Use enough loft.

Less lofted clubs are harder to hit out of bad lies. It's harder to hit down on the ball with a less lofted club, and the clubface is more likely to get caught up in the grass as it moves through the contact area. If hitting out of a divot, a less lofted club is simply harder to hit on the sweet spot and you will be more likely to top it.

Keep these tips in mind next time you find your ball in an unsavory position.

Grip Tips

2009-02-10T10:33:00.000-08:00

The golf grip is the foundation with which we build a swing around. It is imperative that the grip be fundamentally sound and feel cozy in the golfers hands. Whichever grip a golfer uses, the hands should always be kept together (touching) so that they function in unison and operate more as one unit rather than two. Of the five elements of the 'set up' (grip, alignment, stance, posture, ball position), the grip is the most important.

Those taking up the game would be well advised to seek instruction regarding the set-up, and particularly the grip. A poor grip is often tough to change, especially if someone has been using the wrong grip for an extended period of time. Before a beginner gets in the habit of using an incorrect grip and setting it into their muscle memory, they should seek out the proper form so that a solid foundation is established.

Just like anything else in golf, the grip becomes automatic after enough practice and reinforcement. Initially however, the beginner should keep a club handy at all times so that they can check their grip often and assure that it is correct. I tell students to keep a club next to their couch at home so that they can check their grip at night as they're relaxing with some music or television.

There are only three grips that people should choose from (aside from the putting grip, which has countless variations). All grips should consist of the right hand being below the left hand on the club (for right handers):

1. The Baseball grip.
Hands on the grip similar to how they would be on a baseball bat. Hands next to each other and touching, but no interlocking or overlapping of fingers. Most popular with kids, women, beginners, and seniors

2. The Overlap (or 'Vardon') grip.
Pinky finger of right hand rests in the notch between the forefinger and middle finger of the right hand. Most popular with low handicap players, players with large hands, and professional golfers.

3. The Interlock grip.
Similar to the overlap, but the pinky finger of the right hand interlocks between the forefinger and middle finger of the right hand and the forefinger of the left hand interlocks between the pinky finger and ring finger of the right hand. Most popular with players with smaller hands and average to professional golfers (this is the grip that both Tiger Woods and Jack Nicklaus use).

I am partial to the Interlock Grip because I feel that this gets the hands best working harmoniously and as a single unit. The Overlap grip is more popular with professionals but it feels a little too 'loose' in my hands. If you have trouble being too 'right hand dominant' when swinging, then the Overlap might be best, as it makes it difficult to apply too much grip pressure with the right hand.

Grip pressure should be light (about a six on a scale of one to ten), but a bit more firm with the pinky, ring, and middle finger on the left hand, and with the middle finger of the right hand. This is because the left hand should be the more dominant hand in the golf swing and if the three fingers on the left hand are not firm enough the grip can separate from the hands at the top of the backswing (as well as causing the right hand to become too dominant). Grip pressure should never be too firm with the forefinger and thumb of the right hand, as this will cause the right hand to turn over the left hand excessively during impact and hook the ball.

The thumb and forefinger of each hand form a 'V' when they are on the grip. This 'V' should point somewhere between the chin (a weak grip) and the right shoulder (a strong grip). Take a strong grip to draw the ball and a weaker grip to fade the ball.

It is amazing how subtle grip changes can alter ball flight, so don't be afraid to play around with hand placement when practicing at the driving range. A strong grip makes it easier for the hands to 'turn over' and release through impact (thereby drawing or hooking the ball). A weak grip makes it more difficult for the hands to turn over and produces a fade or slice.

I fight the hook in my own golf swing. I find that merely gripping more lightly with the forefinger and thumb of my right hand allows me to swing about as hard as I want to without hooking the ball, because the hands will not turn over as easily when I release the club down the target line. This has really helped me swing without the fear of the dreaded duck-hook.

In summary, if you are a beginner, focus on getting comfortable with a fundamentally sound grip that you can keep for life. If you are a more advanced golfer, experiment with grip pressure and hand position and notice how both can alter ball flight.

The Pre-Shot Routine

2009-02-06T14:00:00.001-08:00

Developing a good, repeatable pre-shot routine (the actions you make just before a golf shot) is of utmost importance. This should entail a series of actions that best prepare you mentally and physically so that you can increase confidence and up the chances of success.

We, as humans, are creatures of habit. Therefore it stands to reason that if we make the same actions every time before our shot we put ourselves in a 'comfort zone' of sorts which allows us to relax and make our best swing. Here are my suggestions for a good pre-shot routine:

Take a practice swing.

I like to take one practice swing before every shot, and two practice swings for putts, chips, and pitches. Full swings should not require two practice swings because it is essentially the same motion repeated. However, for short shots, which are 'feel' shots, I think a couple of 'rehearsals' are in order (so that you can best judge how far to bring the club back).

Shake your muscles loose.

I like to kind of jiggle my arms and legs a little in order to loosen up my muscles just before I make a shot. This gets me limber and eases tension from my body which puts it in a better mode for making a golf swing.

Take deep breaths.

Don't forget to breathe. A couple of good, deep breaths just before hitting the ball can go a long way towards relaxing you and getting oxygen to your muscles. Maybe you take your deep breaths as you are shaking your arms and legs.

Determine your target line.

Stand behind your ball and hold up the shaft of your club so that you can see both the target and the ball along the shaft line (looking only through your dominant eye). This is your target line.

Pick an intermediate target very close to your ball along that target line.

Choose a spot (small leaf, divot, etc.) very close to your ball along the target line. This is your 'intermediate target'. Even better if you choose several intermediate targets both directly behind and in front of your ball in order to reinforce your target line, but have one major one just in front of your ball.

Set your clubhead perpendicular to this intermediate target.

This allows you to align your clubface to a target very close to your ball instead of one way down the fairway. It's always easier to line up to a target very close to you as opposed to one that is very far away.

Set your body line parallel to the target line.

Make sure your toe line is parallel to the target line by holding the shaft of your club just in front of your toes. Assure that the club is pointing slightly left of your intended target, but parallel to the target line.

Take a last look at the intended target as you waggle your club.

This will reinforce your ultimate destination and the waggle will loosen you up and allow you to feel the weight of the clubhead to gain feel in the shot. The waggle is a small rehearsal of the swing. I also like to rock back and forth on my feet a bit while I do this to assure that the leg muscles are loose and ready for an athletic motion.

Keep the intermediate target in your peripheral vision and swing with confidence while focusing on the golf ball.

Having the intermediate target in the peripheral vision will allow you to release the clubhead towards the target and will reinforce your target line. Focus on a dimple on the ball or on the logo in order to narrow your focus.

Remember, everyone has their own pre-shot routine. Find one that works for you and stick with it! The more you do it (even on the practice range), the more it becomes routine.

Guide to golf course etiquette

2009-02-06T10:47:00.000-08:00

Golf is a game of many, many strange rules and traditions. While many of these are probably outdated and should be abolished, a golfer should know as much as possible about good etiquette before they take their game to the course. Some of this is (or at least should be) basic common sense, but let's cover the bases anyway:

Play 'Ready Golf'.

Don't be overly concerned about the honor system of golf (person with the best score on the previous hole hits first; person furthest from the hole goes first) just hit when you're ready. Unless you are playing a competitive round or your playing partners insist on 'the honors system', just step up to your ball and hit it when you're ready to go. You can be the worst golfer in the world and nobody will notice if you keep up your pace.

Prepare for your shot when other people are hitting theirs.

Don't worry about their shot, don't look at what they are doing to prepare for their shot, just prepare for yours. For instance, when your playing partner is addressing their ball for a putt, you should be down low to the green reading the break, so that when it's your turn, you are ready to hit without further preparation.

Have an extra ball in your pocket.

Have a ball ready in case you hit one out of bounds or can't find it. This will save the time of having to walk back to your bag and fish out another one. The added confidence of having a ball handy will likely improve your swing too.

Replace your divots.

When your club slides under the turf and sends a divot flying down the fairway, it's your responsibility to replace the divot to it's original place and tamp it down with your foot. The grass roots will re-attach themselves to the turf and thereby not cause damage to the course.

Fix your ball marks.

When you hit an approach shot to the green from more than 30 yards or so, it will leave an indentation on the green when it lands. Simply have a 'ball mark repair tool' in your pocket and use it to push the surrounding turf inwards towards the middle of the mark and tamp it down with your putter so that it is level again.

Don't talk in people's backswings.

One of those old fashioned stuffy golf traditions, but still important. Some people feel that the slightest noise will throw off their swing and distract them enough to mis-hit the ball. You would also be advised to stand out of the golfers line of sight when they are addressing a ball, and not to move excessively either.

Let people behind you play through if they are having to wait for your group.

If the group behind you is having to wait to hit their shots because your group is slower than them, simply wait for them on the next tee box and allow them to 'play through'. You can also mark your balls when they are on the green, then wave them up, and allow them to play through on the current hole.

Leave your golf bag on the side of the green closest to the next hole.

One of those things that should be common sense but you see all the time. People leave their golf bag on the opposite side and have to walk all the way around to get it and back towards the next hole. Not a big deal on one hole, but if they are doing this on every hole the cumulative time spent is significant.

Don't walk on other golfer's putting lines.

Observe the intended line of other golfer's putts and make sure you don't walk in them. Another old school tradition, but the footprint actually can leave an indentation in the green that would make the ball 'jump' off course when they putt.

Stand behind other golfers when they are preparing to hit their ball.

Pretty obvious for safety reasons, but you also don't want to be in their line of sight as they are preparing to hit. Don't be in such a hurry to get to your ball that you forget about this one (I learned the hard way on this one and got nailed on the back pretty hard a few years back).

Warn other golfers if your ball is flying towards them.

You must yell 'FORE' loud enough for golfers to hear you if your ball is flying at them. This serves as a warning for them to duck their heads under their arms and protect themselves from potential injury.

There are many other ways to display good etiquette on the golf course, but you will pick these up as you play more. The above checklist should be enough to get you started though. Have fun and mind your golf manners!

The Mental Game

2009-02-05T08:46:00.000-08:00

Have you ever taken a few months off golfing, only to return and find that your swing has never been so pure and effortless? I think we all have. This is because we, as golfers, tend to get in our own way and let a barrage of 'swing tips' and 'swing thoughts' enter our mind when we play regularly. This is called 'paralysis by overanalysis' in the golf world - and it's something we've all fallen victim to at one time or another.

We would do a lot better by trusting ourselves and our abilities more, and allowing natural instincts to take over. Granted, golf is not an easy game compared to other sports, but we make it much more difficult when we try to break down every component of the swing and fall victim to over-thinking. It's been said that the game of golf is more mental than physical - in other words, it's more important to have confidence and trust in yourself than being coordinated or physically gifted.

Here are some suggestions for improving your mindset so that you can play better golf:

> Don't worry about what you look like.
This is a killer. Often times (especially on the first tee or when there are many people watching) we worry about what will happen if we hit a bad shot, or what that might look like to other people or peers who may be watching. This causes big time tension, which prevents swinging smooth and free. Realize that everyone is too pre-occupied with their own swings to worry much about yours.

> Breathe.
Deep breaths can be very calming and go a long way towards lowering the heart rate and allowing ourselves to be in a good 'mental spot' to hit a golf shot. Inhale through the nose deeply and exhale through the mouth as you stare down the fairway and picture your ideal shot.

> Visualize.
Mind over matter. Picture the exact shot you want to hit and put everything else out of your mind. Chances are if you are telling yourself 'anywhere but left into the lake', that will be the mental image you have when you swing and you will do exactly the thing you are trying not to (put it in the drink). Picture the fairway, or the green, and don't even acknowledge the trouble elsewhere.

> Focus on your target and not your ball.
If the ball is your target, you are likely to 'hit' at the ball with tension and not swing freely through it. Remember, your target is somewhere 'out there' down the fairway or on the green - the target is not the ball. Let the ball get in the way of your swing and follow through confidently.

> Concentrate on the shot at hand and don't worry about previous shots or future shots:
There is a real tendency to start 'adding up the score' during a round and not focus on the shot you need to hit 'right now'. Understand that there is nothing you can do about the shots you've already hit, so you just have to accept them. Also, there is nothing you can do (yet) about the future shots in your round. Therefore, put all your focus and concentration on the shot at hand and give it your full attention.

> Don't lose your temper.
Anger causes frustration which causes tension which causes flubbed shots. Let it go, you are here to have fun first and foremost. If you're not, you probably should look for a different hobby. I've never seen anyone have a good remainder of their round after throwing their five wood in a lake. Remember, all you can do is do your best on the next shot.

> Enjoy the company and the scenery.
If you can really try and enjoy the people you are playing with and the beautiful surroundings of a golf course, you will put yourself in a pleasant mind frame and not put too much pressure on yourself or your golf game. A round of golf consists of only a few minutes of actual 'playing', or swinging of the club. So, why not try and enjoy the other few hours and make the most of them?

> Narrow your focus.
When swinging the club, look at one spot on the golf ball (a dimple or the logo) rather than the whole ball. On short putts, picture a blade of grass on the cup that you want the ball to roll over, rather than the whole cup. When we narrow our focus we increase our chances of success.

> Don't have swing thoughts.
Most golfers have two or three 'key swing thoughts' as they set up to the ball. This overload of information causes tension and second guessing. Trust yourself and your abilities, and if you have one swing thought, make it something to control your tempo (remember that slower is almost always better - pressure situations cause us to swing too fast).

> Believe in yourself.
Trust your natural instincts and your ability to propel an object a certain direction. It's an innate ability that we sometimes forget we have. Have confidence in yourself and you will experience much greater success.

Most importantly, just relax. It's just a game, folks! Have a good time and try to meet some new people. You might not have the best score of your life, but you might make a friend or two, which, when looking at the big picture, is better anyway.

Practice That Pitch Shot

2009-02-03T08:07:00.000-08:00

Second to the chipping shot (short shots around the green that are kept on a low trajectory), the pitch shot is the most important shot to practice - particularly for beginners. The pitch shot is the shot which is too far away from the green to chip, but not far enough for a full swing. It is a 'feel' shot because the golfer must judge how far to bring the club back in order to achieve the correct distance.

The ball flight for a pitch shot is on a higher trajectory than a chip shot because the intent is to have the ball land close to the target and stop shortly thereafter (whereas the intent for a chip shot is to get the ball on the green on a low trajectory and have it roll a longer way to the hole). Realize that the chip shot should be used whenever possible as it is a higher percentage shot than the pitch shot. Anytime the wrists start to hinge and unhinge and the hips begin to coil and uncoil, as in the pitching motion, the difficulty level increases. Remember, the chip shot mimics the putting motion in that the only thing moving is the shoulders - rocking them back and then forward. One pendulum is always easier to control than several. However, if the chip shot is not an option then we need to get more loft on the ball and pitch it to the green.

For the sake of this article, let's assume we're hitting about a 40 yard pitch shot. This is about the distance that an average golfer will hit the ball if they are bringing the club back to parallel (shaft parallel to the ground), and following through to parallel. This is the pitch shot that I like to teach because the 'parallel back' and 'parallel forward' positions are two critical checkpoints in the full swing. So, when the golfer practices this shot, not only are they practicing the correct pitching motion, but they are also reinforcing the two most important checkpoints of the full swing.

Here's how I believe this shot should be executed.

1) Bring the club back with a 1 piece take-away (only the shoulders and chest used to begin the backswing).

2) When the clubhead moves just past the right foot, the hands rotate slightly in order to fan the clubface open and the wrists begin to hinge slightly.

3) Feel the body weight begin to load up on the inside of the right leg and coil the hips slightly.

4) Continue to fan the club open and hinge the wrists a bit more to bring the club back so that the shaft is parallel to the ground, feeling a bit more body weight loading up on the right side.

5) When the club is in the 'shaft parallel to ground' position, the toe of the club should be pointing straight up in the air, and the butt end of the club should point directly at the intended target (this is a major checkpoint in the full swing, and it is true no matter which club the golfer is using). The arms should be close to the body.

6) The first move to bring the club down should be a transfer of weight to the left side coupled with the uncoiling of the hips.

7) The arms, shoulders, chest, and golf club fall down and through the impact zone as a result of the weight transfer and uncoiling motion.

8) The right hand naturally rolls over the left as the clubhead contacts the ball and passes through the impact zone.

9) The right heel of the right foot comes up naturally as a result of the full transfer of body weight to the left side.

10) The clubhead continues to fan 'closed' as the shaft comes up towards the 'parallel to the ground' position.

11) When the club is again in the 'shaft parallel to ground' position on the follow through, the toe of the club should again be pointing straight up in the air, and the shaft of the club should point directly at the intended target (again: this is a major checkpoint in the full swing, and it is true no matter which club the golfer is using). The arms should still be close to the body.

12) The chest, belt buckle, eyes, and club all point towards the intended target, with about 80% body weight having transferred to the left side of the body.

13) Hold the finish until the ball hits the ground or even until it stops rolling (for good balance).

Practice this shot with all clubs, from the sand wedge to the driver. Although a pitch shot is typically used with only more lofted clubs, you will be practicing the two major checkpoints when you practice with all clubs. Assure that you are getting to the 'toe up - toe up' position on each side of the ball and assure that the club points directly at the target on both sides (straight back, straight through). Generally speaking, whatever is going wrong in your full swing can be fixed just by fixing whatever is going wrong between these two checkpoints. For instance, if you generally pull the ball left, chances are likely that your club is pointing too far left in the 'parallel up' position on the follow through (very common).

Aside from this being a wonderful drill to practice with all clubs, you will find that shots like this are necessary many times during actual game play. Any time the golfer misses a fairway, chances are there are some tree limbs or something preventing a full swing on the approach. The ball must be kept low in these cases, and a 'toe-up to toe-up' shot with a less lofted club is the required shot.

Most golfers do not practice this shot, or if they do, they practice only with their sand wedge or pitching wedge. Practice it with all clubs and get the leg up on your competition.

22 Drills That Pay The Bills

2009-01-29T07:54:00.000-08:00

Golf drills can be extremely effective if kept simple. I think that many of the 'contraptions' golfers and golf instructors often use (swing jackets, hinged clubs, etc.) are often more detrimental than helpful as they restrict the golfer to a certain movement. In reality, there are many different swing types (think of the difference between Jim Furyk's swing and John Daly's) and I believe golfers should be free to use their natural form.

This is not to say that there aren't some general truths and general checkpoints to the golf swing. However, trying to teach someone 'the perfect swing' is not advised in my opinion, as the student will become too preoccupied with analyzing their swing to death and all natural instinct will be lost.

There are several drills I use that 'encourage' what I consider to be good fundamentals of the golf swing. Here are some of my favorites:

Left Hand Only Drill:
Easy. Hit balls with only your left hand on the grip. Start with chip shots and move on to pitches and full swing with more lofted clubs. This is one of the best (if not the best) drill for me because it encourages 'getting the lead arm (that's the left arm for right handers) more involved'. It's very natural for us as right handers to try and force the club down and through with the right hand. However, this is detrimental to the golf swing as it will cause an early release and 'flipping' at the ball. Left Hand Only Drill will get the lead arm more dominant as it should be and the golfer will establish much better 'lag' through the impact zone.

OK Sign Drill:
Once the golfer is comfortable with the Left Hand Only Drill, I like to have them try the 'OK Sign Drill'. Set up to the ball with your normal grip, then remove the thumb and forefinger of the right hand and mimic an 'OK Sign', touching the tips of the two fingers above the grip. Hit some balls like this, again, progressing from small chips to the full swing with lofted clubs. Removing the grip pressure from these two fingers does wonders for helping the lead arm dominate and getting good lag through the ball.

Ball Too Far Forward Drill:
This is a good one for the Driver. Tee the ball up so that it is so far forward in your stance that it is outside your left heel. Hit balls and feel the clubhead extending down the target line for a long period of time before contact is made. This helps to keep the clubhead square through the impact zone and encourages a delayed release.

Feet Together Drill:
Hit middle irons with your feet right next to each other. This helps with many things; swinging easier, discouraging the 'sway' away from the ball, keeping the head still, and preventing vertical body movement.

Balance Pod Drill:
The only 'contraption drill' I use. Buy two small, inflatable balance pods at your local yoga or exercise store. Take slow motion swings (without a ball present) while standing on the pods, occasionally pausing at the 'general swing checkpoints' (club parallel to ground, club perpendicular to ground, top of backswing) and try to keep your balance. This builds up the muscles in the lower legs that are crucial to a good golf swing and helps dramatically with balance. Pausing at the checkpoints ingrains the key positions into the muscle memory.

Brush The Wrists Drill:
For slicers. Hit balls and then make sure your wrists brush against each other as you follow through and release the club, getting your arms into an 'X' position. In order to get into this position, the right hand is forced to roll over the left hand excessively, which encourages the proper release of the club (many slicers 'hold on' to the release for too long and chicken wing their left elbow - or separate it from the body on the follow through).

Line Em' Up Drill:
This is a great one for around the green or if you're fortunate enough to be able to practice the full swing on a wide, grassy area. Line up 10 balls or so in a straight line away from you, about six inches apart, and hit each one, walking down the line and letting the club swing back and forth naturally (never letting it stop swinging), feeling it brush the grass back, and brush the grass through. This encourages a natural swing as opposed to a forced one. The grip must be kept fairly light on the club in order to achieve consistent contact.

Club On Chest Drill:
Hold the shaft of the club so that it is lying against your chest and your arms are in an 'X' position holding it in place (with the club parallel to the ground and parallel to the body line/ target line). Have a ball in the middle of your stance, and mimic a backswing with the club on your chest. Make sure that at the top of the 'backswing', the shoulders have turned enough so that the club points directly at the ball on the ground. Then, mimic the downswing and follow through, making sure that at the finish, the club is again pointing directly at the ball. This encourages a good shoulder turn and helps with keeping the eyes down.

Step Right, Step Left Drill:
Take full swings with a middle iron - when you bring the club back, move the left foot over so that it touches the right foot. At the top of the swing, move the left foot back over to it's original position then begin the downswing. As you follow through, move the right foot over so that it is touching the left and hold the finish. This encourages a good weight shift to the right on the backswing and to the left on the downswing.

Chip With Eyes Closed Drill:
Just like it sounds. Hit chip shots at the driving range with your eyes closed, making your best effort to achieve contact. This helps the golfer develop feel and awareness.

Right Heel Up Drill:
This is a good one for beginners or those who have trouble getting the ball up in the air. Take your normal stance, then bring the right heel of your foot up so that the toe is touching the ground. Hit some balls like this (starting with chip shots) and make sure the heel stays up the entire time (backswing, downswing, and follow through). This helps the golfer hit the ball on a descending blow as it puts the body in a position that makes 'hitting down on the ball' easier. It also discourages the 'scoop' at the ball and promotes good lag.

Pull Your Arms Drill:
This is one of my favorites and you don't even use a club. Take your normal stance and pretend the club is in your left hand. Grab your left elbow with your right hand and pull your arm back so that it is parallel to the ground, parallel to your body line and parallel to the target line, keeping the right elbow close to the body. Stop. This is what I consider to be the ideal position at this point of the full swing. If you remove your hand from your elbow and take your normal grip as the arm is parallel to the ground, you will be in the correct position. Make sure that the majority of your body weight is on the right side. Try the opposite for the 'release'. Grab the right elbow with the left hand, (pretending that the club is in the right hand) and pull the right arm forward. Again, when it is parallel to the ground it should also be parallel with the body line and target line and if you were to take your right hand off the left elbow and put it in the 'virtual grip', you would again be in a great position, fully released down the target line with the majority of body weight on the left side. This drill teaches the proper take-away, and the proper release of the golf club. Straight back, Straight Through.

Ball Behind Club Drill:
Take a pitching wedge, set down a ball, and put a ball a few inches behind the ball you are addressing. When you bring the club back, simply hit the back ball with the back of your clubhead and start it rolling backwards. Try with different clubs and move the back ball a bit further away from the front ball as loft decreases. This encourages a good 'straight back' take-away

Walk Through Drill:
Take a lofted club, hit the ball, and as you follow through step forward with your right foot so that you actually finish with your right foot in front of your left foot and up on your left toe. Incredibly effective to teach the proper weight transfer and keep the club square and traveling down the target line for longer. Gary Player used to hit balls like this during tournament play.

3 Ball Drill:
Another good one for slicers. Set up three balls a few inches apart in a horizontal line that points towards your front foot. Hit the middle ball. Repeat. This encourages bringing the club down on an 'inside to out' plane and releasing to the right (outside the target line), which will cause the ball to draw if the face of the club is square to closed.

Back To Target Drill:
It is literally impossible to hit a slice with this one. Hit balls with your back to the target. Set up normally, then turn your stance 45 degrees to the right (for a right-hander), but keep the clubface square to the target. Hit balls from this position. Sure feels awkward, but it definitely gives the feeling of coming at the ball from the inside. Probably not for the beginners though, because making solid contact will be difficult.

Club On Ground Drill:
The most simple drill I can think of. Just set a club down on the ground between your body line and the target line. Have the club either parallel to your target line or slightly pointing to the right. As you hit balls, focus on getting your clubhead on a plane that follows the angle of the club on the ground. This visual will help prevent an outside to inside swing path on the way down.

Lock The Wrists Drill:
This is a great one for chipping and putting, as the wrists should remain firm all the way through the stroke (no hinging or unhinging). Simply take your putter or pitching wedge and hold the grip with your left hand all the way down on the grip. Turn your right hand around so that the pinky finger is closest to the ground, and grab both your grip and left wrist with your right hand. Now, take some strokes (either with a ball or without) and feel how your wrists stay firm throughout the swing. This is how it should feel when you hit 'actual' shots.

Putt To The Fringe Drill:
The best putting drill. Putt balls towards the fringe from different areas on the green and try and get the ball to stop in the fringe. This will help the golfer develop an excellent feel for distance control (the most important aspect of putting). A great one for beginners because the target is much bigger than a 'hole' and it frees them up to swing more naturally.

Twirl The Club Drill:
Bring the club back to parallel (to the ground) and close your eyes. Twirl the club in your hands so that the clubhead rotates around several times and then stop randomly. See if you can guess what position the face of your club is in. As you develop feel for the clubhead this will become easier. The best golfers know exactly where there clubhead is throughout the swing - this is a key to allowing the clubhead to do the work and not force it.

Toe-up Toe-up Drill:
Another of my favorites. Bring the club back so that it's parallel to the ground and stop. Assure that at this point two things are evident; the toe of the club is pointing straight up and the club itself is parallel to your body line/ target line. Hit the ball and follow through but again stop when the club is parallel to the ground and assure the toe is up and the shaft is parallel to your target line. Practice will all clubs. Make sure your arms don't separate from your body excessively. This will reinforce a major checkpoint in the swing, improve your chipping and pitching, encourage a proper release, and help straighten out your shots.

Footprint In The Bunker Drill:
Make a footprint in the bunker, facing the target. Put a ball in the middle of the footprint. When you swing down, try and remove the footprint with the clubhead, paying no attention to the ball. This will help the golfer slide the club under the ball and accelerate through.

Give a few of these drills a try and let me know what you think!

Tempo, Tempo!

2009-01-27T08:25:00.000-08:00

We would all like to take our best golf swing, put it in a bottle, seal it up, and then uncork that bottle whenever we needed to use that swing. Unfortunately, we can't bottle our best swing. All we can do is practice diligently and try to build a 'repeatable' swing to the best of our ability.

A main goal of practice should be to ultimately get to where the swing is more 'automatic'. There is no shortcut to getting there, there's just a whole lot of repetition and training of the muscle memory via practicing (similar to a toddler training themselves to walk - once they get it, they've got it). The 'getting to automatic' phase of learning the golf swing can be incredibly frustrating, but the beginner must remind themselves that they are getting closer with each ball they hit, regardless of whether solid contact was achieved or the ball shanked off the hosel. Remember, we often learn more from our mistakes than our success.

So, what is the quickest and most efficient way to 'get to automatic'? I believe it has a whole lot to do with tempo, as if we don't have the same tempo with each swing then it becomes incredibly difficult to hit solid, repeatable shots. Golfers should try to 'swing to a cadence' in order to achieve a good repeatable tempo.

It should be noted that most golfers (especially beginners) try to swing the club too hard and too fast, as if they were in a hurry to hit the ball and get the swing over with. They often need to be reminded that it is a golf 'swing' not a 'hit at the golf ball'. Slowing down is almost always good advice, no matter what the golfer's skill level is. Remember that the muscles in the arms and upper body have very little to do with achieving distance; rather, the lower body and hips should initiate, then dictate the downswing. The arms and hands should simply follow along as a result of the body uncoiling towards the target. When this is done properly, all the stored energy, or 'centrifugal force', created as a result of the uncoiling motion will cause the clubhead to reach maximum speed at the proper time (the moment of contact). That being said, once the golfer learns to start the backswing slower and start the downswing slower, it's time to 'pick a tempo'.

Choosing your tempo is quite easy. You simply count '1,2,3' on your backswing and '1,2,3' on your downswing, or something to that effect. Obviously, you don't have to say this out-loud; just 'think' it in your mind as you swing. You may think '1,2,3' is too long to count for a backswing or downswing, especially if you are used to rushing it, but remember that slowing down is almost always beneficial. I used to say 'Fred-die' on my backswing and 'Cou-ples' on my downswing, but this was too easy to rush because there are only two syllables in each word. I now say 'Ser-gi-o' on my backswing and 'Gar-ci-a' on the downswing, and I find this cadence slows me down to where I should be.

It may be that you do have a faster swing, as some pros have very fast swings, too (Corey Pavin comes to mind). If this is the case then you may want to count '1,2' back, '1,2' down or use the 'Fre-die Cou-ples' cadence when you swing.

The point is to create a mental device to draw upon that will make repetition easier. This is most beneficial in 'pressure' type situations (think: 1st tee on a busy day and you're playing with your father in law for the first time and he's a scratch player), as these are the times when a golfer is most likely to 'rush' the swing (maybe in order to get it over with!). If the golfer takes a deep breath and utilizes their 'mental tempo device' they will be much more likely to swing smoothly and less likely to try and force it.

Keepin' it Square

2009-01-22T12:03:00.000-08:00

My Nike SQ Driver has literally revolutionized my game off the tee (for the better). I have much more confidence with this driver than any other I've ever used. In my opinion, the square club head is incredibly helpful (at least on the driver), especially for beginner golfers.

I honestly have very little idea what goes in to the research and development of a club like this, but I do know that added confidence equates to added success. When I look down at a square club head it makes it drastically easier to align my club properly at address. I can see and feel the club head travel down and through the impact area (the foot behind the ball and the foot ahead of the ball) on the downswing so much better than I could with a conventional driver. The fact that the club head is bigger helps me stay aware of where it is throughout the swing (which is a key to developing good feel by the way).

There is a theory that the square headed drivers don't twist as much at impact and thereby keep the ball on a straighter path. The square drivers supposedly have a higher M.O.I., or 'moment of inertia' than conventional clubs. This involves moving the majority of the weight to the perimeter and away from the center of the club head to prevent the club head from twisting at impact. Granted, 'moment of intertia' may be the catch-phrase of the moment in golf circles, but I buy into this. When I hit a shot with my SQ driver and it feels like it should be a thirty yard slice, I am thrilled when I look up at my ball and it has only faded five or ten yards. Again, I'm not exactly sure what science goes into this but I do know that my shots don't veer off course nearly as much as they used to.

I think a big reason why pros may not have jumped on board with this technology is that they are often more interested in clubs that have the ability to 'shape shots' as opposed to straighten out ball flight. They could hit a straight drive with a broom stick, so straight ball flight is not necessarily what they're after in a driver (similar to the blade irons many pros play as opposed to cavity backs which are easier to hit straight).

Many golfers may also be turned off by the price tag on these square headed drivers. Rest assured though, the prices are coming down quickly as the clubs become more mainstream. I believe that within five years at least half of all drivers will have a square head.

Starting the backswing

2009-01-22T09:12:00.000-08:00

The takeaway is possibly the most important part of the swing to get right. In order to swing the club on the correct plane, it must be started on the correct plane.

Taking the club away too far inside the target line will result in an over-the-top move at the top of the swing in an effort to re-direct it on the downswing, resulting in pulls or pull-cuts. Taking the club away too far outside the target line will result in a big loop at the top of the swing in an effort to re-direct it on the downswing. Both of these improper takeaways will likely cause erratic ball flight, as the golfer is constantly guessing how much to re-direct their club at the top in order to get it on the correct plane on the way down. Wouldn't it be better to start out correctly so that we can maintain the proper shaft angle throughout the swing? I thought you might agree.

In the proper takeaway, the toe and the heel come back away from the ball at the same time for a few inches to a foot depending upon what club is in your hands (more loft = less distance away from the ball on the takeaway, less loft = more distance away from the ball on the takeaway).

The beginning of the back swing is similar to the chipping motion in that the wrists should stay locked until the club head is brought back past the back foot on the back swing (this is known as the 'one piece takeaway', a swing theory which I subscribe to to the point that the wrists should not be so locked that you lose all your feel, but they should be quite firm - think 'firm but supple'). Nothing else on the body should be moving except for the turning of the shoulders to bring the arms away from the ball until the club head is brought past the back foot. At this point the chest and hips should begin to rotate with the club.

Golfers are often surprised at how 'straight back' they can bring the club head away from the ball (with all clubs). It is the simplest and most practical way to do it, but a lot of 'over thinking' can take place at this part of the swing and the golfer may yank the club head back quickly as they are in too much of a hurry to hit the ball. I like to think 'slow and low' on the takeaway, more so with the less lofted clubs than the less lofted (as less lofted clubs require the golfer to get the club head on a wider arc, thereby necessitating the club head to stay closer to the ground for longer). As the club head travels past the back foot it should begin to fan open to get into the correct 'toe up' position when the shaft is parallel to the ground.

Two of my USGTF teaching associates suggested to me their favorite drill for teaching the proper takeaway. They are both brilliant:

From Craig Wolfe, Director of Golf / Head Pro, Town & Country Golf Links. Woodstown, New Jersey. USGTF Level IV / Examiner:

"Have your student set up as if he has a club in his hand with his left hand (RH golfer) on the virtual grip. Then have student grab his left wrist with the right hand (with thumb on top). Now have the student "pull" his left arm back until the left arm is parallel to the ground. At this point, the right elbow should still be connected and the left arm should be on same line as foot line. Lastly, make sure that at this point, 75-80% of weight has shifted to the inside of the right foot. If those keys are in tact and student understands to monitor those keys while doing the drill - then the student can begin to re-construct their swing without worrying about results until new swing is ingrained. May take 10-14 days of doing this drill before new take-away becomes more comfortable BUT...it will definitely promote an on plane (straight back - straight through) swing. Student will feel like they are not swinging enough or working enough in the swing - but will get over that with the VERY positive results! What we call (Straight back - Straight through) eliminates the big misses from left to right and insures better ball contact."

This drill reinforces every proper motion that should be made on the takeaway. I tried it a few times and instantly thought it was one of the best drills I'd ever come across. The fact that the student can practice it anytime at their own leisure without a club is fantastic, and I think the more this motion is repeated the more the golfer's muscle memory is trained to make the right moves.

Here is another one, which is even more simple (but you need a club and ball for this one):

From Pat Phillips, Level III USGTF Pro. Golf Teaching Academy, Tonawanda, N.Y.:

"Put a ball 3" behind [the student's] club at address and ask them to take the club back and roll the ball straight back. This drill stops them from taking the club too inside on the back swing. [Have them] do this drill everyday until the next lesson."

Incredibly simple and effective, which is how the best golf instruction should be.

Course Strategy

2009-01-20T14:49:00.000-08:00

The best golfers are not only great players, but they are very intelligent. This allows them to make the best decisions when on the course and translates to lower scores. One must put their ego on the back burner and know their limits on the course. 'Playing within yourself' is always good advice but sometimes easier said than done. Here are some tips for good course management:

Know your typical ball flight and account for it when setting up.

If you hit a draw 80% of the time, then make sure you're setting up aimed slightly to the right (for right handers). This gives you the best chance of hitting the fairway. If you favor a fade, then set up slightly to the left. How much you aim left or right obviously depends on how much you tend to draw or fade the ball. If you hit a wicked slice, you might want to aim a whole fairway over to the left in order to bring it back towards your fairway.

Aim away from trouble at all costs.

If there is a pond on the right side of a par 3 and you play a fade, then aim even further left than you usually would if there were no pond. No matter how far left you end up, it will still be better than ending up to the right (in the drink).

Aim at the fat of the green rather than at the pin.

Unless you are a very low handicap player, your goal on approach shots should be to hit the green and give yourself an opportunity to putt, rather than aiming for a pin on the left or right of the green, which will make missing the green more likely.

Favor taking more club rather than less club.

Golfers have a tendency to remember the best shot they've ever hit with a certain club, then use the mental image of that shot when picking a club for a given distance. For example, if you have 150 to the green, don't think about that time you caught the 8 iron flush with a tailwind and hit it 150, rather, think about what you average with that club when you're at the range. 9 times out of 10 choosing more club will get the ball closer to the pin.

Try to leave the ball under the hole whenever possible on pitches and approach shots.

An uphill putt is always more favorable than a downhill putt. The golfer can be much more aggressive on an uphill putt whereas a downhill putt requires a lot of feel and has a much higher chance of shooting past the hole.

Don't try any shots you're not comfortable with

It's great to try big hooks and slices when on the range, but unless you really feel comfortable hitting them, it's better to take your medicine and punch out to the fairway from the woods rather than trying to get too fancy with a big curve ball.

Always think about your next shot.

Golf is a lot like chess in this way. You should always be thinking one or two shots ahead, and thinking about where you would like to hit the next shot. For example, if you're on the tee box on a par 4 and you know there is a giant bunker on the right side of the green, you should try and leave your drive on the left side of the fairway so that your approach shot doesn't have to clear the trap.

Make sure you are aligning yourself correctly.

Too often I see golfers take one look at their target then simply step up to the ball, take a practice swing, then hit. They would benefit greatly by a different approach to aiming: determining their target line, picking an intermediate target close to their ball, setting up their club head so that it's perpendicular to this line, then setting their body line (foot line) parallel to the target line.

Know your limits.

Don't worry about what other people are doing, just trust what you've got and play your own game. We've all made this mistake; you have the 4 iron in your hand but your buddy hits his driver 300 yards down the middle on his tee shot so you feel compelled to take your driver too. Don't do it. Trust your initial instincts and play the shot you had planned on.

I hope these tips help you make better decisions on the course. Remember that every shot matters and try and make the best decision on every shot.

Stop Hooking

2009-01-20T11:51:00.001-08:00

Learning how to swing a golf club involves many adjustments to achieve an intended ball flight. In my opinion, golfers follow a similar trend as they progress:

1) They start golfing, and like most beginners, have an awful, uncontrollable slice
2) They tame the slice and hit more of a fade that only occasionally slices
3) They take a lesson or learn on their own how to hit the draw
3) They have been slicing for so long that they still slice some, but start to hit some draws
4) The draw becomes more prevalent and the slice rears it's head less and less
5) Most shots are draws
6) All shots draw, and some snap-hook
7) The snap-hook becomes uncontrollable
8) The golfer is forced to re-learn the fade in order to bring things back to neutral

So, how do we go from snap-hooking to re-training ourselves to fade the ball or hit the ball straight? Here are my tips:

A) Weaken the grip. Chances are that your grip is too strong if you are hooking regularly. Simply rotate both hands so that the thumbs are further to the left on the grip and the 'V' that is formed by the forefinger and thumb is pointing more towards your chin than your right shoulder or beyond. Also, make sure that there is more grip pressure in your left hand than your right. If there is too much pressure on the right hand (particularly the thumb and forefinger) the golfer will release the club too early and thereby snap-hook it. These simple grip changes will go a long way towards re-directing the ball flight.

B) Open the stance. A closed stance encourages an early release and a 'swipe' across the ball that will come from the left to the right (or inside to outside of the target line) and put counter-clockwise hook spin on the ball. Opening the stance will allow the club head to travel down on a right to left plane and put clockwise fade spin on the ball. Attack the outside half of the ball as the club comes down rather than the inside half.

C) Hang on a bit longer and assure you don't release the club too early. Resist having the right hand roll over the left through impact, or at least delay it.

D) Picture a bowler and the move that they make with their right hand if they want to put spin on the ball; they turn the right hand inward as they release the ball rather than if they were to roll it straight, in which case the hand does not turn inward. Have the thought "I'm going to roll the ball straight rather than spin it" as your club head travels through the impact zone.

E) Another good analogy is the tennis stroke; think "hit flat" instead of "hit with topspin." The move is very similar in golf (again, think of how the right hand turns over and inward on a topspin).

F) Make sure you are letting the club head release towards the target on the follow through. I see a lot of golfers 'hit and quit', in that they focus so much on hitting the ball that they forget that the swing doesn't end at impact. Let the club head travel down and through the impact zone and allow it to continue on down the target line as it releases. Snap-hooking is often the result of the club rotating around the body to the left too quickly after impact.

Try these tips out on the range and I guarantee you will stop hooking the ball.

Teaching Golf to Juniors

2009-01-20T09:00:00.000-08:00

I love teaching golf, but I especially love teaching golf to kids. Seeing the joy in the face of an eight year old child when they hit one pure or sink a long putt is much more satisfying than trying to turn an eight handicapper's 10 yard draw into a 5 yard draw. If you can get a young child interested in golf, they will benefit in countless ways. More important than learning fundamental skills of this great game, they will learn much about life, as the parallels between golf and life are well documented.

Nothing is more frustrating to me than seeing an adult pushing their child to succeed at the driving range or during a lesson I am giving them. I think this turns the learning process into a chore, and the child will be much less likely to flourish. Constantly trying to correct their form at this stage will cause them to tense up and not use their natural instincts. Children have a natural ability to swing the golf club, because it is generally too heavy for them to make an incorrect motion like a reverse pivot (weight going forward on the back swing and backwards on the downswing). This forces them to use the weight of the club head to hit the ball rather than try to force it, and ingrains a keen sense of feel that will set a great foundation for the swing.

Job one is being friendly to the child and never condescending. Find common ground as quickly as possible (ask them what they like or don't like about school, other sports, their experience with golf, etc.). By establishing a rapport right off the bat the child feels comfortable and ready to learn in a completely non-threatening environment. I like to act goofy and try and get them to laugh at me. This reduces any 'intimidation' factor. Obviously, avoid any technical words or terms, and get down to their level by squatting down so that they can look at you face to face.

Before taking a child to the driving range I take them right to the putting green and have them hit a few tennis balls into the hole from a very short distance. This not only builds their confidence immediately by giving them positive feedback, but when they start hitting golf balls into the cup rather than tennis balls the hole looks a heck of a lot bigger. If you can teach them the short stuff first then build towards the full swing (first putting, then chipping, then pitching, then lofted irons, then less lofted irons, then woods) they will develop a wonderful feel for the game.

There is a great drill I use for kids on the putting green. I set up a circle of tees on the green about the size of a hula-hoop with about 6 inches between the tees. I then have them putt balls towards the hula hoop and if they either get the ball to stop inside the circle or if they hit a tee, they get to choose their favorite color tee in the circle and keep it. They keep trying this drill from different distances and then I have them try and chip some balls to the circle (same deal, ball stops inside the circle or hits a tee then they pocket a tee). This is a great way to introduce the importance of distance control (which is really what golf is all about isn't it?) and the small prize is enough to keep their attention. The kids I've tried this drill with have wanted to keep doing it over and over, which is exciting because it encourages falling in love with the short game before moving on to the full swing (it's a great drill for adults too, by the way, if you can just convince them that learning how to hit their driver can wait).

Introducing the fundamentals (grip, stance, aim, ball position, swing techniques) should happen very slowly to prevent sensory overload. As I stated before, kids often have an innate understanding of the game that is lost on adult beginners, so they should be encouraged to find their way on their own to some degree. This is where some parents and I differ, as often they will want me to make sure their shoulders are square at address, or that they are swinging the club on a flat enough plane. I don't think kids under 10 or so should worry about any of this, unless they are already into competitive golf. As they hit balls they will pick up on what works and what doesn't, and will make adjustments accordingly. I make sure they have their hands together and are aimed in the right general direction and just have them whack away. Contests, friendly competition with other kids, and positive reinforcement are key to holding their attention for the lesson. I always have a pocket full of small prizes to give away during junior lessons.

I don't ever tell a child they are doing something 'wrong'. I always, however, point out (enthusiastically) when they doing anything correctly or experience any amount of success. Words like 'no' and 'don't' stifle the learning process and only confuse the child as they are generally unaware of what they are doing wrong even if you explain it to them.

If you can just let the child have fun and enjoy the game rather than pushing them to succeed they will be much more likely to become a lifetime player (and, probably a better player too).

Let the lead arm dominate

2009-01-14T16:08:00.000-08:00

I had my swing videotaped this last year (face-on), and was amazed at what I saw when the impact frame was paused. My hands were behind my club head and it appeared I was flipping at the ball (the wrists had already become slightly unhinged). This explained why I consistently hit the ball too high and often hooked the ball.

Any time the trailing arm (the right arm for right handers) becomes too dominant, there is a tendency to release the club too early, which causes the 'flip' at the ball and promotes the toe of the club head passing the heel of the club head before it has reached the ball (thereby sending it to the left). It also discourages the descending blow that is necessary for good contact and it does not keep the club face square through impact as long.

The right hand should not play an overly active role in the golf swing. The majority of grip pressure should come from the pinky, ring finger, and middle finger of the left hand, and just the middle finger of the right hand. As a right hander, it does feel more natural to grip the club more firm with the right hand, but this must not happen, especially on the downswing. When the left hand grip is not firm enough, the grip actually separates from the hand at the top of the swing, which throws the club off of the proper plane.

My coach (USGTF Master Instructor Jim Perez) gave me a great drill to help get the left hand more involved and get the right hand less active. Simply take your normal grip then move your right forefinger to the top side of the grip so that the tip of the finger touches the tip of the thumb (mimicking an 'OK' sign). Hit some balls and be aware of how the left hand feels when it is forced to carry more of the load (you'll likely be surprised at how well the ball flies, especially if you've been losing them to the left previously).

These days, when I find that I'm pulling or hooking the ball, I just remove all grip pressure from my thumb and forefinger of the right hand. This is a modified version of the above drill, and it really helps me lead with with my left arm and hand, thereby discouraging the right hand from excessively rolling over the left through impact.

Another easy and very beneficial drill to help train your left arm to lead is to merely hit chip shots with only your left hand on the grip. You'll find that it's very difficult to try and flip the club head at the ball when performing this drill, and it also re-trains your muscle memory to make the correct 'down and through' move.

A great swing tip I read recently stated that "it should feel as if you're getting ready to throw a Frisbee with your left hand during your downswing." This is wonderful advice, as it gets the mind to focus more on the pulling motion from the left side of the body and less on the forced pushing, or 'flipping' with the right.

It's no wonder that many left handers find success golfing right handed, as their left hand and arm are naturally more dominant when they swing. For the rest of us though, it takes some work. I wonder if right handers wouldn't benefit from learning to golf left-handed? Something to think about.

Make your putter smooth, like butter

2009-01-13T09:07:00.000-08:00

Putting is an often underappreciated artform that is hugely neglected by most golfers in their practice regimin. When one considers that almost half of the shots during a round occur on or right around the green, it becomes evident just how important putting is.

When I teach beginners how to play golf, I take them to the practice green immediately and get right into the putting stroke. By doing this, they are starting out with the smallest stroke and getting instant feedback by feeling the clubhead contact the ball with very little chance of 'mis-hits' (thereby building confidence). They also get a quick understanding that golf is a game of feel, and many shots during a round will require much less than a full swing.

I start with explaining the putting stroke itself and the things I believe are sound fundamentals:

> The only motion the body makes during a good putting stroke is the rocking back and forth of the shoulders to get the club head moving on a pendulum (I believe in putting on an arc. Putting straight back and straight through entails some manipulation of the wrists and elbows).

> Any time something else is moving besides the rocking of the shoulders (i.e. wrists hinging, body rocking back and forth, hips turning), the golfer is introducing another one or two pendulums into the mix and thereby making distance control that much harder to obtain.

> The ball should be played right in the middle to just slightly forward in the golfer's stance. This encourages hitting the ball slightly on the upswing (the putter and the driver are the only clubs used that hit the ball on the upswing) and gets it rolling off the club face rather than bouncing. If you were to take your normal putting posture, take the ball and hold it right in front of your left eye then drop it straight down on to the ground, this is the ideal location to play the ball.

> Keep a light grip on the club (even lighter than with other clubs). Hold it just firmly enough so that the club does not sway, or drag during the putting stroke. This encourages 'accellerating through the ball' which is a neccessity. Often times the golfer will second guess how far they've taken the club head back, which leads to decelleration on the downswing and a botched stroke.

> Keep your eyes down until after you've putted the ball towards the hole. Any time the eyes come up early the putter is thrown off it's intended path and the ball veers away from the intended line. This is important with every club but especially the putter. Usually one is in such a hurry to see where the ball went that they lift their eyes and try to immediately watch the ball. A good way to help them keep their eyes down for longer is to tell them to 'look for the black spot that the ball leaves on the green after it is hit' (this is a trick your eyes play on you, because the ball is so bright against the green, when it is hit you can see a 'black spot', or an impression of where the ball was). Looking for this spot will help re-inforce keeping the eyes down longer.

> Use whatever grip feels comfortable. As long as the hands are at least touching (for standard length putters), the palms face each other, and the wrists are kept firm throughout the stroke, the golfer should go with whatever grip feels good in their hands.

> Have a shoulder-width stance and make sure that the body line is always parallel to the target line (this is a good time to briefly introduce the importance of alignment). Make sure they understand 'aiming to the apex of the break' (the spot where the ball stops moving one way and starts moving the other).

> Always play more break than you think you should. Most golfers don't play enough break and never even give the ball a chance as it ends up on the side below the hole (there is a reason why this is called the 'sucker side' and the other side, with the break, is called the 'pro side').

> Favor 'dying the ball at the hole' as opposed to agressively trying to make every putt. This will leave the ball close to the hole instead of way past it (this may seem obvious, but many instructors teach the aggressive approach with the theory that more putts will be made. Many more will be missed on the way back too though). If you can, at least try and miss slightly on the far side so it at has a chance to go in. I like the thought of the ball rolling in just fast enough to tap the back of the cup and rattle in.

> Picture a 'hula hoop' sized hole surrounding the cup for long putts, and have this be your target. This takes a lot of pressure off of getting too wrapped up in the line of the putt and allows the golfer to lag the ball up to the hole in a relaxed fashion. I like taking my practice strokes while looking at the hole for long putts, too, as this helps me get a feel for how hard I want to hit it.

After these fundamentals are introduced, the most important thing to teach about putting is: Distance Control Trumps Aim Control Every Time. This should be stamped on the grip of every beginner golfer's putter. Too often the beginner obsesses so much with reading the line that they neglect to focus on the distance of the putt, or 'how hard they need to hit the ball to get it to stop in a general area'. Therefore, when I begin the lesson on the green, I simply have the golfer putt balls from different distances on the green and instruct them to 'try and get it to stop in the fringe' (you first have to explain what 'the fringe' is of course). I continue with this drill for at least ten minutes, so that they can establish a good feel for distance control. Then, I do a couple more distance control drills with tees before having them try to hit towards the hole.

If an adequate amount of time is spent teaching distance control, the golfer will have a great foundation to build from and progress forward.

Ball flight laws

2009-01-08T08:19:00.000-08:00

Too many golfers come to the driving range and try to hit every ball straight. Any shots that curve a particular direction other than reasonably straight seem to frustrate them, as they continually pound away at golf balls in search of the 'dead arrow' ball (one that flies directly at their intended target with little or no deviance from the target line). What they don't realize is that, in order to hit a ball fairly straight, you first have to understand why it does not go straight. Through this understanding of the physics of ball flight comes awareness and control.

First of all, it's impossible for a ball to go 100% 'straight'. In an indoor driving range where there is no wind and the ball is caught perfectly square at impact, that ball might fly very close to straight, but still, not completely straight. Whether the ball moves one millimeter or 100 yards to the left or the right in the air, it always curves from one direction to the other in varying extremes. So, it stands to reason that the more we understand what makes a ball move from one direction to the other, the more control we gain over our ball flight.

Also, once we start noticing our 'ball flight tendencies', we can start accounting for this out on the course. This helps take trouble out of the way and again, gives us more control over our game. For instance, if you begin to notice that you have a tendency to hit a ball that curves anywhere from 10 - 20 yards from left to right, then you simply aim about 15 yards left of your intended target to give yourself the best odds.

As the club head travels down and through the impact zone (I consider this to be approximately the foot behind the ball and the foot ahead of the ball), there are three possible swing paths. Inside-to-outside of the target line, outside-to-inside of the target line, and perfectly square to the target line.

Of these three possible swing paths, there are three possible club head angles for each path. Closed, open, or perfectly square to the swing path. There are varying degrees of how open or closed the club head is, but generally speaking, these are the three possible club head angles.

So, three swing paths times three club head angles equates to nine possible ball flight directions:

1. Inside to outside swing path with an open faced club head = push slice (or 'double cross' right)
2. Inside to outside swing path with club head square to path = push
3. Inside to outside swing path with closed faced club head = draw

4. Square swing path with open faced club head = slice
5. Square swing path with club head square to path = straight
6. Square swing path with closed faced club head = hook

7. Outside to inside swing path with open faced club head = fade
8: Outside to inside swing path with club head square to path = pull
9. Outside to inside swing path with closed faced club head = pull hook (or 'double cross' left)

Obviously, number 3 (draw), number 5 (straight) and number 7 (fade) are the most desirable ball flights. But since a ball never flies 'perfectly' straight, we should always plan for at least a slight fade or draw. Of course, if you are hitting around a dogleg or trying to avoid trouble, a slice or hook may actually be the intended ball flight.

To put it in different terms, if the club head 'swipes' across the ball from the right side to the left side, clockwise (slice) spin is put on the ball. The more it 'swipes' across the ball in this fashion, the more slice spin is imparted on the ball and the more the ball will curve from left to right.

Adversely, if the club head 'swipes' across the ball from the left side to the right side, counter-clockwise (hook) spin is put on the ball. The more it 'swipes' across the ball in this fashion, the more hook spin is imparted on the ball and the more the ball will curve from right to left.

The easiest way to hit a draw or a fade is to keep your club head square to your intended target, open your stance for a fade, or close your stance for a draw, and swing the club on a path parallel to your stance (or 'foot line'). The foot line can be determined by laying a club on the ground touching the front of your shoes, then looking at which direction the club is pointing. If properly executed, this will start the ball to the left (for a fade) or right (for a draw) and curve it back towards the intended target. The more you open or close your stance, the more dramatically the club head will swipe across the ball, and the more your ball will curve away from and back towards the target, due to increased spin.

I always tell my students to 'practice in extremes'. That is, practice hitting giant hooks and giant slices just to get the feeling down. Also, you never know when you might actually want to hit a shot like that on the course. Once they really get the feeling of 'a lot of curve' down I have them scale it back a little and try more subtle draws and fades.

To set up for a 'giant hook', I have a very strong grip, a very closed stance and a moderately closed club face. I assure that I make a complete coiling motion on the way back. I make sure I brush my right elbow by my right pocket on the down swing to assure I am approaching the inside half of the ball with the club on a flat plane. I am also very conscious of the right hand rolling over the left hand as the club head releases and travels through the impact zone. Then, I make sure to follow through with the club rotating fully around the back of my body.

To set up for a 'giant slice', I have a very weak grip, a very open stance and a moderately open club face. I do not make as big of a shoulder and hip turn on the way back. I let the right elbow separate from the body on the downswing to assure I am approaching the outside half of the ball with the club on a steep plane. I 'hold on' through the impact zone, not allowing my right hand to roll over the left. I 'chicken wing' my left elbow a bit a (separating it from the body) after impact to 'hold on' even longer and delay the release of the club head. Then, I stop short of a full follow through by finishing with the club in front of me rather than fully rotated around the back of my body.

Once these 'extreme' shots are learned and the feel is established it's easy enough to tone things down and hit shots that don't curve as excessively. Consequently, when the golfer goes back to trying to hit fairly straight shots, they will find that success comes easier due to the understanding of the ball flight laws. However, I think every golfer should always aim slightly left or slightly right based on their tendencies or the shot they are trying to accomplish.

Feel

2009-01-04T22:12:00.000-08:00

When I think 'feel' as it relates to the golf swing, I immidiately think of 'feeling the weight of the club head throughout the swing.' If you can achieve this, you will achieve a great feel for the game. Sounds easy enough, but too many golfers grip the club too hard and try to 'hit' at the ball, rather than swing through it. A very common mistake is 'trying too hard'. Most golfers would do a lot better by 'trying less, and feeling more'. Through this awareness comes improvement.

Pick up a lofted iron and waggle it back and forth a little, making sure to grip the club lightly. You'll notice that pros do this before every shot they take, and there is a good reason. They are feeling the weight of the clubhead swinging back and forth and they are preparing themselves to make a smooth golf swing. This also relaxes the muscles and prevents tension from creeping into the upper body. The waggle is the 'small rehearsal' of the swing that every golfer should incorporate into their pre-shot routine. The practice swing would be considered the 'big rehearsal', and is not as important as the waggle in my opinion (this applies only to the full swing; I do recommend a practice swing for any putts, chips, and any shorter shots or specialty shots).

The more you can be 'aware' of where your clubhead is throughout your swing, the better your chance of success. If you are gripping too tight and are unaware of where the clubhead is as you swing, you are taking a pretty big leap of faith in believing that you will deliver the clubhead square to the ball at the proper moment.

Of course, nothing comes easy in this game. Obtaining a better understanding of the golf swing, learning the proper checkpoints of the swing, repeating them, and training (or re-training) your body (muscle memory) comes with a lot of practice. After you put in the work, things start becoming more automatic and less forced, which leads to gaining more feel and ultimately, success on the course.

Here are a few drills that can help you incorporate more 'feel' into your game:

> Take swings with your eyes closed, while focusing on feeling where the clubhead is throughout the swing. You can try this one with or without a ball. Also try making chip shots with your eyes closed, and chip shots with your left hand only.

> Take practice swings with two clubs, or with a weighted club. It's difficult to try and manipulate the club/s with your hands and arms when you do this because it's too heavy. This forces you to feel the club head and slow things down.

> Find a nice, smooth, repeatable tempo. A good way to do this is to count '1,2' on the backswing and '1,2' on the downswing. This will help prevent 'rushing it from the top' and help you resist 'trying to hit it hard'. I believe it was Bobby Jones who said "Lazy up, lazy down."

> Practice short shots often (at least 50/50 with respect to the full swing). This will give you instant feedback and improve your overall 'touch'. Many people don't realize that when you are practicing the short swing, you are really practicing your full swing as well, because the short swing is just a smaller version of the big one.

> Close your eyes, take the club back so that the shaft is parallel to the ground, then twirl the club around in your hands and stop after a couple of twirls. See if you can feel exactly what angle the club head is at. This drill will dramatically improve your 'awareness' of the club head, which is essential for getting more feel in your game.

The strange thing about golf is that the less you try, the better you tend to play. Relax, have fun, and the other stuff will come naturally.

Extra distance

2009-01-03T15:46:00.000-08:00

We all want to hit the ball further. If we learn to hit it further, then we want to learn how to hit it further than that. No matter what our skill level is, we're all on that never-ending quest for those elusive extra few yards.

There is a popular misconception amongst beginner golfers that added strength in the arms and upper body will equate to added distance from their golf shots. We see Tiger Woods on TV and we see a guy who has the physique of a professional bodybuilder and we think, "Oh, ok, so I'll hit the weights and build my upper body up like that, then I'll be able to hit it 340 yards like him!"

Not exactly.

Extra distance comes from faster ball speed, which comes from faster swing speed, which comes from rapid clearing, or 'un-coiling' of the hips, which comes from a proper pivot onto the right leg during the backswing and a transfer of weight to the left leg to start the downswing.

Aside from the shoulders turning, the upper body is more or less just along for the ride. This is especially true on the downswing, when the arms swing down and through simply as a result of the hips clearing and body un-coiling. Ideally the arms should almost feel like dead-weight as gravity drops them down and through the impact zone.

Therefore, more important than having a strong upper body is having a strong lower body and 'core', and a flexible upper body. Added strength in the legs will allow for a good foundation (for balance) and added abdominal (or 'core') strength will translate into a powerful uncoiling motion and transfer of weight to the golfer's lead side. This is not to say 'completely ignore weight training on the upper body'. A good balanced workout is always advised (you don't want to look like you have the legs of Emmit Smith and the upper body of Pee-Wee Herman). Make sure to incorporate stretching excersizes into your routine. Increased flexibility in the upper body will allow the golfer to make a good turn with the shoulders and obtain that 'loosy-goosy' feeling which is so important.

Any time that one makes a conscious effort to hit the ball harder by swinging faster with the arms, a 'casting' motion takes place (which means the golfer is bringing the club down too fast from the top). The result is generally a nasty pull or a wicked slice. One is better off starting the downswing in a lazy fashion, making sure that all the stored energy is released in the impact zone (as the club head travels into and through the ball).

The classic drill that confirms that the golfer's swing is reaching maximum speed at the correct moment is the 'flip the club' drill. Simply flip the club around, hold on to the shaft just below the clubhead, make a normal swing, and listen to where the "whoosh" sound occurs. If you hear the "whoosh" right after you begin the downswing, you are casting the club, or rushing it from the top with your arms. If you hear the "whoosh" at the impact zone, you are making the correct motion (allowing the clubhead to fall down and through the bottom of the swing arc as a result of the clearing of the hips and arms following).

Think about when you throw a frisbee. If you just flick it with your arm and hand it will fly a short distance. If you make a big coiling motion with your shoulders and hips as you bring the fisbee back, then uncoil your hips and move your weight to the front side before you fling it, it will travel a considerably further distance. The same is true of the golf swing. I love the feeling of 'imagining you are getting ready to throw a frisbee with your left hand' on the downswing. This pulling motion with the left side results in a powerful motion through the ball.

The following tips and swing thoughts should also help get you more distance:

> Drive your knees towards the target during the downswing, this thrusting motion helps generate club head speed.

> Delay the 'uncocking of the wrists' as long as possible. This keeps the club head square through impact and lends to a proper and powerful 'release' as the club head whips through the ball.

> Fire the right side of the body through aggressively during the downswing. This helps the hips clear faster and gets the body weight moving down and through.

> Have a light grip (a 6 on a scale from 1 to 10). This will help prevent the upper body and arm muscles getting too involved and trying to manipulate the club on the downswing, thereby encouraging gravity to do its magic.

> Assure that you have the right hand rolling over the left hand through impact. This will help prevent the weak slice, which is a distance robber.

> Impliment a slight foward press to start the backswing. This helps get the momentum moving in the right direction and allows for a proper weight shift which translates to added power.

> Think big. Visualize a target further down the fairway than you think you can hit it, and try and hit it there. The more you believe that you will hit it far the more likely you are to do so. Confidence and the power of positive thinking are undeniable forces that lead to success in any endeavor.

> Create a big, wide arc with the club away from and around the body (especially with the driver), separating the hands from the body a considerable amount during the backswing. This big motion will help create the momentum that is required for clubhead speed coming into the ball.

> Have the feeling that your joints and limbs are 'oily' as you swing the club back and through. This one is from Sam Snead. It's a great swing thought and it assists in alleviating tension in the upper body.

> During your backswing and downswing, visualize the ball 'exploding' off of the club head after impact and as the club travels down the intended target line. Again, the power of positive thinking.

> Favor a draw. A ball that travels right to left will fly on a lower trajectory, thereby bouncing and rolling further than a high fade. Additionally, the draw imparts topspin on the ball, whereas the fade creates backspin. The ball will bore through the air and again, the ball will bounce and roll further. Unless the wind is helping you big-time, the draw will get you more yardage.

> Have a strong grip and a slightly closed stance. These will assist in hitting a draw.

> As you swing the club head into the ball, think of attacking the 'inside half' of the ball. Assure that your right elbow is brushing by your body on the downswing and that the club is on a flat enough plane. Wrists 'brush' after the club releases. More 'draw helpers'.

> Favor a shorter back swing as opposed to a long back swing. This creates more 'torque' in the hips and shoulders and allows right side to power through aggressively.

Hopefully these tips help you out. If you have any comments or suggestions please contact me anytime.

Different club, different swing

2009-01-02T08:48:00.000-08:00

Golfers are often told to 'use the same swing for every club'. I believe this is poor advice and will lead to wild ball flight.

If one considers the angle of the shaft at set-up, the longest club (driver) is on a much flatter plane than that of the shortest club (sand wedge). Therefore, the club must be swung in a way so that the plane of the shaft is maintained throughout the back swing and follow through.

So, if the golfer takes a driver and tries to use the same swing as they do for their sand wedge, they will be taking the club back and delivering it through on too steep of a plane. This will lead to a gigantic slice, and I think it's one of the main reasons that people struggle with the driver and the less lofted clubs.

The reverse is true. If the golfer takes the sand wedge and attempts to use the same swing that they use for their driver, it will be on too flat of a plane and they are likely to pull the ball left.

To expand on this, the initial move away from the ball with a sand wedge entails basically bringing the club head straight up and back in front of the body. Whereas, the first move with the driver is to bring the club head back very low to the ground for a foot or so and then on a wide arc around and behind the body. Even if the golfer is a 'two plane' swinger, the driver is brought back on a much flatter, wider plane than the sand wedge.

This is one of the reasons why ball position for the more lofted clubs should be played further back in the golfers stance (towards the back foot). The ball should be placed right in the middle of the stance for a sand wedge (or just slightly back of center), and move towards the front foot as loft decreases (culminating in the driver, when the ball should be played just inside the left heel). The more lofted club one is using, the steeper the swing and the bigger the divot. The most lofted club requires that the golfer hit more on the downswing, with the swing arc bottoming out well after contact and under the turf. As loft decreases this move becomes more subtle (huge divot for a sand wedge, pretty big divot for an 8 iron, shallow divot for a five iron, little or no divot for a fairway wood).

I think that people generally swing the driver and the less lofted clubs on too steep of a plane and the sand wedge and more lofted clubs on too flat of a plane, because they are trying to use the same swing with every club. This is one of the reasons why golfers have so much trouble with longer clubs and tend to slice more with them (another reason being that loft negates side-spin, so the ball is always going to go straighter with a more lofted club as the ball is generally spinning backwards rather than sideways, even on slight mis-hits. The margin for error is much smaller with less loft). On the other end of the spectrum, golfers have trouble getting the ball high enough in the air with the more lofted clubs as they are not swinging on a steep enough plane or hitting down on the ball enough.

Think sand wedge 'steep', driver 'sweep' as a general rule.

Teaching the chip shot to beginners

2009-01-01T08:12:00.000-08:00

"So, what would you like to get out of these golf lessons? What are some of your 'golfing goals'?" The instructor asks the new student.

"Um, I don't know!" The student replies without much thought.

"Are you sure? Nothing comes to mind?" The instructor persists.

"Well, uh.. I guess to hit it far and to learn how to hit my driver better?"

We've all heard this one before. It's a fairly common theme.

The student may not have wanted to admit it because they know, even at their skill level, that learning how to hit it far and how to hit the driver well are bi-products of learning smaller shots with more lofted irons first, and building towards the 'Big Dog'. However, patience is a virtue that not all of us possess (guilty as charged, your honor), and it's just human nature to want to hit it far.

Convincing the beginner student that the best way to learn the game is from the green backwards is usually not too challenging, as the student places quite a bit of trust in the instructor before the two even meet. Therefore, the instructor should take the student to the practice green for the first one or even the first two lessons and get a good short game foundation established.

If the student is signed up for a series of lessons - the first lesson should be spent entirely on putting. The drills practiced should encompass primarily 'distance control' exercises (such as putting to the fringe from different areas on the green to get a feel for 'how hard a ball needs to be hit to get it to stop at a certain area'). As we all know, distance control trumps 'reading the line well' in terms of putting success, especially for the beginner. After a good amount of distance control drills have been completed, the instructor should then introduce 'reading a putt' and show how the student how to line up to hit a putt to the apex of the break (the spot where the ball stops moving one way and starts moving towards the other). This is a good time to mention the importance of aim/ alignment.

At the end of the first lesson, the instructor should mention that the next lesson will be devoted to the chip shot. First the instructor needs to define what that shot is, then give a demonstration with a pitching wedge, mentioning how similar the chipping motion is to the putting stroke (rock the shoulders, light grip, keep the rest of the body still, keep the eyes down until after contact, don't break the wrists, and focus on distance control). Playing the ball back in the stance should be encouraged as well.

Bringing up things like 'having an open stance, accelerating through impact, hitting the ball on a descending blow, lagging the club head behind the hands through impact, leading with the left arm, and opening the club face for more loft', should not yet be introduced to the beginner. This will cause sensory overload and tension. Give them a chance to try a couple of shots before the first lesson is over.

For the second lesson, give a quick verbal refresher on the putting stroke, then transition back into the chip shot by again mentioning the similarities between the two shots. Then tell the student that the chip shot is an incredibly important shot to practice (in my opinion it is the most important shot for beginners to practice and feel comfortable with before moving on).

Reasons why the chip shot is so important for beginners to learn and practice diligently include:

-The motion mimics the putting motion, thereby reinforcing a good putting stroke.

-The golfer establishes a good feel for contact through repetition. The more this action is repeated the better.

-The golfer is unknowingly practicing hitting the ball on a descending blow, setting a great foundation for the full swing.

-The golfer is also unknowingly practicing a slightly delayed release of the hands, again setting an excellent foundation for later.

-The golfer is practicing the most important small section of the full swing, the contact point.

-The golfer is practicing the 'one-piece-takeaway' that is the start of a good back swing.

-When the golfer practices the chip shot with different lofts (and this is where it gets exciting), they are not only practicing chipping with different trajectories (which is a good idea in my opinion - I am an advocate of using as little loft as it takes to get the ball on the green and rolling over as much green as possible), but they are practicing how 'club-to-ball' contact feels with different clubs. I believe that if this is introduced on the practice green, the golfer will transition from lofted to less lofted clubs easier on the driving range.

Whichever loft they are using for chipping, make sure the student picks a specific target spot where they want the ball to land on the green in order for it to roll towards the hole (laying down a golf towel as the target spot works well for this) rather than thinking of the hole as their target spot. Be very encouraging and tell them that just getting it on the green is a success as a beginning golfer.

When the student is finally taken to the range, have them practice some chipping strokes without a ball at first, relaying the importance of 'brushing the ground' with every stroke. Encourage 'the club head thumping the ground every time' and introduce the concept of hitting down on the ball with more lofted clubs. Then, have them practice hitting chip shots with a pitching wedge and transition to the pitch shot and towards the full swing.

The more a golfer practices chipping, the better their entire game gets. What's so great is that practicing the short game is always free at the practice green, in the park, or in the living room at home (just make sure to use practice balls in the living room - I learned this one the hard way).